"It sets the tone of the meal" - top Scots chefs on the elevation of bread and butter in restaurants
It has gone from an item forgotten on a side plate or bread basket to a celebrated course in multiple tasting menus. What has sparked the change in attitude to humble bread and butter, and how are top Scottish chefs leading the charge? Rosalind Erskine finds out why a comforting and simple staple has made it to the big time.
I remember as a teenager being on Suzanne Somers ‘somersize’ diet which was basically a low-carb eating plan. I’ll always remember the advice for when you got to your goal weight, which was when eating in restaurants do not go near the bread basket. While our diets may have changed (keto is probably closer to the one I was following 20 years ago), our appreciation of bread has. From trends such as fibremaxxing to a love of sourdough and artisan bakeries, we take our baked goods a lot more seriously these days - and so do our restaurants.
“Bread is being positioned as a course more during tasting menus. I think diners expect more nowadays, and breaking bread is an incredibly engaging way to entertain and create emotion at the table for your guests,” said Mark Donald, executive chef of the Two Michelin Starred The Glenturret Lalique restaurant.
“However, bread was often quite a transactional, non-offering in many restaurants and I think during lockdown a lot of people had a chance to zone in on a craft within their craft and master something. Naturally something that is sharpened and refined by a craftsperson is something they want to show off and highlight,” added Mr Donald.
While many chefs are adding bread to their multiple course menus, Mr Donald doesn’t count this as a course but as a “milestone in the menu and not rushed.”
He said: “I made the decision to serve a whole loaf sliced rather than just one piece so guests don't feel too shy to ask for more. The bread can be enjoyed throughout the meal and used to mop up any extra sauce.”
Tom Tsappis, chef-owner of the One Michelin Starred Killiecrankie House, near Pitlochry in Perthshire agreed that bread and butter isn’t naturally a ‘course’ but that there are practical reasons for this.
He said: “I think traditionally bread has always been a part of the western fine dining canon, but in recent years, there has been a trend towards it becoming a course in its own right. I suspect there are some practical reasons for that - instead of making a range of breads to fill a trolley/basket etc, you only need to make one if it is a standalone course; and flour, even the best available, is cheap and filling. It is also delicious and so an easy win for restaurants.
“For me, it feels like a bit of a cop out if a ‘course’ is essentially bread and butter, though; I think it is far better used as a vehicle with which to mop up sauces, or load on something like beef tartare.”
David Smith, head chef at The Dipping Lugger in Ullapool has been experimenting with the bread offering at this award-winning restaurant. He said: “Diners today are much more curious; they want to know the backstory, the ingredients, and even the secret behind a restaurant’s bread offering.
“At The Dipping Lugger, we make all of our bread and pastries in-house. Over the years, I’ve experimented with what we serve, but we now make a cross between a brioche and a Parker House roll. On the menu, we call it “Inverbroom”, in honour of where we source the honey that goes through the dough, and is also used to glaze the bread once it’s baked.”
Alan Keery, co chef patron of Nàdair in Edinburgh, explained that the rise in artisan bakeries is a factor in customer bread expectations now.
He said: “More of an effort has been made by chefs to incorporate bread into the whole menu. And it's nice that customers are noticing. It used to be that bread was a side though, just chucked on the table to keep you occupied until your starters arrived. But I think with the surge in artisan bakeries, and cultural influences, people are starting to realise the sweat and toil that goes into making a beautiful loaf.
“Let's be honest, growing up in the UK meant that we probably weren't gorging on quality bread. But there has been a change in the wind, and it's good that customers can see how chefs are putting more thought into using bread as part of the greater dining experience. Long overdue, but it's certainly getting the respect it deserves.”
Dietary requirements are also a key reason in taking bread more seriously. Chef patron of award-winning Mingary Castle on the Ardnamurchan peninsula Colin Nicholson said: “There seems to be a real trend emerging within the bread industry, with sourdough rolling off the tongue quicker than a classic white loaf. People are now actively looking for good bread, and it doesn’t just start and end with the taste. With various dietary requirements becoming more common, the ingredients, and types of flours used are more crucial than ever. From ancient grains to organic blends, selecting the best quality is key to keeping up with consumer demands.”
A highly acclaimed and award-winning restaurant, Edinbane Lodge on Skye, is not serving bread as a course but chef owner Calum Montgomery said that doesn’t mean less care and attention is given to the baking of their bread.
He said: “We used to list bread as a course on the menu, but we don’t anymore. That being said, it still receives the same level of care and attention as every other element of the menu. Bread might seem simple, but when it’s done properly, it deserves the same respect as any dish in the progression.”
As for the butter? Peter McKenna, chef patron of newly opened Eleven Fifty Five bistro in Glasgow, who makes and serves wonderful wheaten bread with a Guinness glaze as well as a milk bread loaf, believes in keeping it simple.
He said: “I believe that good bread and butter says a great deal about a restaurant, making bread in-house is non-negotiable for me, it sets the standard. We were incredibly sad when Brenda from Stitchhill Dairy died last year. Brenda and Susan, her daughter, hand-made our butter for many many years. We are lucky here in Scotland as there are a few great butter producers, we don't mess with their craft too much, just whip it slightly.”
Mr Smith makes his own whipped butter and adds chive oil and chive flowers from the kitchen garden. He said: “It’s a simple course, but one that tells a story about the ingredients we use and where they come from, and that's an important part of what we do.”
While on Skye Mr Montgomery offers two butters: “One is a salted butter from Orkney that I’ve been serving with bread for about ten years and still absolutely love. The second is a whipped black garlic butter that we make ourselves and run through the Pacojet before service. Again, it’s about offering different flavours and textures alongside the bread.”
While fad diets and trends come and go, an appreciation of good bread seems to be here to stay in our restaurants. Mr Montgomery explained it well, saying: “Bread is one of those simple things that can say a lot about a kitchen. When care goes into something as humble as bread and butter, it sets the tone for the rest of the meal.”
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