I stayed in a Traitor's-style Scottish castle - it was an impressive winter escape
Make like a faithful and enjoy a relaxing weekend away at this stunning Scottish castle, says Rosalind Erskine.
Unless you’ve been on the moon, you can’t have escaped the chatter and drama of this winter’s Celebrity Traitors, the first star-studded iteration of the hit BBC One programme. It featured household names such as Stephen Fry, Celia Imrie and Jonathan Ross. The filming took place in the home of the Traitors, Ardross Castle near Inverness, and, rather serendipitously, I found myself watching the finale from a Scottish castle, just down the A9 from the original. The rust-coloured turreted Fonab Castle, located just outside Pitlochry, is an ideal spot for a weekend away, and, unlike the Traitors castle, is home to a lovely woodland spa and an award-winning restaurant.
Budget or boutique?
Double rooms are from £240 in low season and from £380 in high season, including breakfast. We stayed during the ‘Stay and Sandemans’ offer which was from £550. The location, views and service, all make this a boutique offering.
Room service
As we were travelling with my dog, Archie, we stayed in one of the charming waterside woodland lodges in a ground floor suite which was like a modern chalet inside with feature wallpaper, comfortable sofas, a desk area and a large bathroom with tub and huge walk-in shower. Archie was also treated to a cosy dog bed, water bowl and treats. Our room had an outdoor terrace and beautiful views out to the trees and loch beyond.
But, if you want to live like a celebrity traitor, book the Castle Suite with its impressive wooden vaulted ceiling, dressing room and amazing loch views.
Wining and dining
Fonab Castle was built in1892 by the Sandeman family, who made their money from port. The restaurant’s celebrated, 3 AA Rosette restaurant takes their name and it’s here where you can spend an evening enjoying a nine course, seasonal tasting menu with paired wines. Highlights on our visit were the lollipop-like Isle of Skye langoustine; sika deer wellington served with beetroot ketchup and bramble jus and Glenmorangie brie served with truffle madeline, heather honey and a glass of Sandeman's port (of course).
Service was impeccable, and friendly, and the dark teal panelled walls, mustard velvet chairs, low lighting and personalised, wax-sealed menu had just a whiff the Traitors style. You could definitely see Claudia Winkleman at home here.
Breakfast is served in 1892 on the Loch which has wrap-around floor to ceiling windows to make the most of the view. Guests will want to grab a seat at the corner spot of the windows to get the best vantage point, but no matter where you’re seated, it’s hard not to take in the tranquillity of the water, trees and wildlife outside.
Worth getting out of bed for
There are two walks from the castle into the picturesque town of Pitlochry, one takes about 15 minutes and the other is a 45 minute loop which we did a couple of times. The loch-side views are stunning, and we were lucky to have dry and sunny weather. Archie enjoyed this walk through the trees and over the river Tummel (via a bridge under the A9) into the town, which is full of independent shops, cafes, a lovely bakery, a Christmas shop and a wonderful whisky shop. Speaking of, Pitlochry is home to Blair Athol distillery, where you can enjoy tours and tastings. The walk to and from the castle takes in the interesting fish ladder and the impressive Pitlochry Festival Theatre. While this is a popular town in any season, it comes into its own in the autumn thanks to the bright foliage and the long-running Enchanted Forest, which celebrates the nature of the area in the nearby Faskally Woods.
After an afternoon walk, the Woodland Spa has a welcome thermal suite that guests can use, and which features an indoor pool, sauna, steam room and aroma room. Outside there are two hot tubs set into a terrace among the trees, which are a relaxing spot day or in the evening.
Little extras
Our room had a Nespresso machine, Tunnocks teacakes, plenty of tea and coffee and water as well as branded bathrooms and slippers which can be worn to and from the spa. The full sized Gordon Castle Walled Garden toiletries in the bathroom were also a welcome addition.
Guestbook comments
Just one mile from the station, the fairytale-like and historic Fonab Castle blends history with highland indulgence where guests can enjoy three AA Rosette fine dining, spa experiences, and lochside tranquility. A variety of rooms and suites offer different ambiances (depending on the nature of your trip) and the on-site spa offers everything from a 15 metre swimming pool to a sauna and aroma relax room and spa treatments.
Hotel info
Fonab Castle
Foss Road, Pitlochry PH16 5ND
01796 470 140
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