I stayed in 'cosy' riverside Scottish hotel in 'most dog friendly town' - it was idyllic
An award-winning pub, cosy fires, completely dog-friendly and excellent food - is this Scotland’s best country hotel asks Rosalind Erskine.
More often than I ever thought I would, I find myself driving up the A9, usually to Speyside and for some whisky-related work trips. It’s a journey I enjoy immensely, given the atmospheric scenery and my favourite place to stop for lunch, or coffee, is Dunkeld. The picturesque town is just an hour and a half from Glasgow, and home to one of my favourite bakeries, Aran, opened by Great British Bakery finalist, Flora Shedden. While I’ve stopped here often, I’ve never stayed in what’s arguably Scotland’s most dog-friendly town (almost all shops, cafes and pubs allow four-legged friends) until this autumn when we spent a night in the celebrated Taybank Hotel.
Once owned by singer-songwriter Dougie MacLean, The Taybank Hotel had a makeover in 2020 by current owner Fraser Potter and has subsequently won multiple awards for its cosy pub, known for its live music naturally and restaurant. The pub is busy and lively with a piano and wood burner, you can imagine spending a rainy Sunday enjoying the atmosphere.
Budget or boutique?
With only five rooms, which can be from £190 in off season, midweek, this is a boutique offering but often affordable if you book at the right time. Usually you’ll pay from £299 per room.
Room service
While downstairs has all the charm of a country pub, upstairs the rooms are Scandi-meets Scotland style (Anna Lamotte from nearby Guardswell Farm helped with the decor) in the fashion I’d love to be able to pull off at home but sadly I have too much stuff. Our double room had a huge bed, open wardrobe and polished concrete shower room. The room is entirely white, including the painted fireplace, with a paneled wooden headboard that is a feature on one wall. Picture postcards and a pile of books, including The Art of Coorie (written by journalist and the hotel’s gardener Gabriella Bennett) add to the homely and considered feel. Nothing here is out of place, from the plants on the windowsill to the towels in the bathroom. As with the whole hotel, it was dog-friendly and comfortable in a pared-back way. There’s no TV, which I didn’t even notice, as it’d stand out like a sore thumb in this stylish space.
As well as the rooms, there are two apartments which are available, one with a private garden and one sleeping up to four people.
Wining and dining
The bar offers a seasonal pub grub style menu, and snacks, and is doing a roaring Sunday roast lunch trade when we visit in mid October. A seat by the fire was an ideal spot for a pre-dinner warm mulled cider and while some staff were preoccupied, it didn’t dampen the spirits too much. Upstairs is the more formal restaurant with views across the river and small bar area. Polished wooden floors, deep grey walls, mismatched wooden chairs and tables and large marble fireplace, the restaurant is aptly named the dining room as it clearly once was when this was a private home.
Food in both the pub and restaurant are local and seasonal, with many ingredients from the hotel’s nearby walled garden. Highlights during our stay included cured sea trout, house squash spatzle pasta and the Taybank roast.
Breakfast is a hamper which can be served on a tray either in the room or can be taken and eaten in the dining room. Ours featured Great Glen charcuterie, pastries from Aran bakery (which is just along the road), homemade granola, orange and apple juices, jam, cheese, fruit and compote.
Worth getting out of bed for
Dunkeld is a popular spot for visitors no matter the time of year, and never more so during the autumn months when we visited. Aran bakery is a busy pitstop but the whole high street and streets off the square are home to independent cafes, gift shops and a whisky shop. The Taybank and next door Atholl Arms both have huge beer gardens that are located by the river, with the Taybank’s selling wood fired pizzas. The team at the Taybank have also just opened a sauna, which can be booked for use privately (£90) or part of a group.
The Hermitage, a National Trust site that has woodland walks is ideal for those with dogs or anyone looking to get out and enjoy the beautiful Pertshire scenery. It has become extremely popular, so be aware that parking may be full at busy times.
Little extras
Sheepskin throws, woollen covered hot water bottles and full size Laura Thomas toiletries all add to the Scadi and cosy vibe. The quirky kettle, with its stove-top look, took time to understand how to use, but was welcome as were the range of teas and freshly ground coffee.
Guestbook comments
The Taybank has long been known for its great music and fantastic setting on the banks of the River Tay in one of Scotland's most beautiful villages. Come and spend an afternoon or evening with a local ale or a Scottish gin in the riverside beer garden.
Hotel info
The Taybank
Tay Terrace, Dunkeld PH8 0AQ
01350 677123
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