This is why Edinburgh restaurant Decanter has become a Bruntsfield favourite

That’s because of its simple formula, involving theatrical decor, a sophisticated yet hearty menu, the fun host, inventive cocktails and an excellent wine list. We asked the owner, Jonathan Chierchia, to tell us more about Decanter.

How long have you been in Bruntsfield, and how have you evolved?

We opened in December 2019 as a local Winery and Dinery of Utmost Finery – a bit of a tongue-in-cheek title. The restaurant is really a reflection of me and my family, and a place where we’d want to hang out. We have an interesting and diverse wine list, but with no pretension. You can just tell the team what you like, and we’ll take it from there. We pair this atmosphere with just really excellent food – inspired by Scotland’s larder, but with a bit of a twist.

Considering the date we opened, we had to do a lot of evolving in a very short space of time. Besides the pandemic’s Sunday roast deliveries and cocktails out of hatches; we’ve learned so much about Bruntsfield and our identity. We’ve grown in our knowledge of cocktails and evolved our menu. Most of all, we’re now becoming known for our events – wine and other tastings that we host frequently.

Finally, we’ve just launched our tasting menu, with five-courses that will change seasonally. Our first focuses on local produce and is called A Taste of Scotland.

Tell us more about that menu

It was an idea developed by our new head chef, Ian, at my request. In 2019 there weren’t many small plates venues in the area, and now with it being a very popular food trend, we find it important to diversify our menu to keep it fresh for our regulars.

We’ve always loved being guests at tasting menus, but wanted to recreate that experience and make it more accessible. We then got incredibly excited about the wine pairings.

Ian has taken the best of our local suppliers to create a menu focused on local ingredients, from Blue Murder and kale soup, to Scottish scallops, haggis, venison, and more. The only ingredient that isn’t locally sourced is a drizzle of truffle oil – if you know of anyone making Scottish truffles, we’re all ears.

We’re going to look at changing the menu every few months, and are so excited to have this as a feature.

Tell us about your team

It feels like you’re visiting family when you go to Decanter, as I’ll almost always be front-of-house. There’s also my sister Maria, and on brief occasions, my daughter Ayda.

Grant is our General Manager, Jack and Antonio are front of house, and Ian is our new head chef with years of experience in many different cuisines. James joins Ian in the kitchen and has been with us for many years . Decanter is not one person - it takes a village to raise a wine restaurant.

Is it a good neighbourhood?

We love being part of Bruntsfield, it holds many memories, good and bad. From going to school here, to my dad owning the legendary Pasquale’s. We believe that we are part of the area’s life blood. To ask us to rate our neighbours, is like asking us to choose our favourite child. There’s Marco at Tempo Perso, Mike and Charlotte at 181, Robbie at Cafe Grande. The boys from Piggs are who we borrow most from and forget to return. So they get an honourable mention.

What demographic does Decanter attract?

The eclectic mix is what makes the place. We have young professionals and those who have been here for decades, as well as wine lovers and cocktail connoisseurs. That’s what we love – nobody feels intimidated. They all have to listen to my playlists though.

Any signature dishes?

There are a few that we just can’t remove from the menu for fear of an uprising. Padron peppers are definitely one of them, as well as the monkfish and prawn skewers, our venison, and the sticky toffee pudding. But the one that received the worst backlash when we trialled a small hiatus was the fish tacos.

Favourite suppliers?

Castle Game and 181 Deli keep our standards high.

Is your Sunday roast still as popular as ever?

Sundays are busy! Our roasts are still going strong – the holy trinity of venison, beef, and chicken being our most popular option.

Any new cocktail inventions?

The cocktail menu is an obsession and I spend too much time thinking about it. Jack has some fresh ideas too. Our staples are always there, and we think our current list is one of our finest. However, we have become a victim of our own innovation, as people can’t see past our Twisted Spritzes.

An incredibly popular new one is The Hugo & Harlot, which is our riff on a Hugo Spritz, made with Harlot English sparkling, elderflower and pear liqueur and soda.

It’s not reinventing the wheel, it’s adding fancy rims to it.

What does the future hold?

We have no idea until we latch on to it. Decanter was always meant to be an adventure, and adventures evolve, but wine is forever. We will keep bringing interesting wines, drinks, and food to Bruntsfield for a very long time to come. One exciting launch we just had was our very own wine: The Reign of Terror. Terror is my English bulldog, who is loved by basically everyone in Bruntsfield. We were able to work with an amazing wine producer in Italy called Matronae – we love their Primitivo, so this is the wine that Terror’s face is now on.

Decanter, 183 Bruntsfield Place, Edinburgh (0131 466 5359, www.decanterbruntsfield.co.uk)