I'm totally in love with this irresistible new Edinburgh seaside restaurant, and you will be too

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Meghan Joyce

This new venue has opened in Newhaven

I don’t often have a hangover.

However, I did have a very rare one on my Saturday lunchtime visit to the new restaurant Norah, in Edinburgh's Newhaven.

I hadn’t tried to cure it by taking any Vitamin C, Irn-Bru or applying lemon slices to my armpits, like they do in Puerto Rico. Instead, I was hoping that the simple and drug-free combination of bracing sea air and hearty food might help me fight the miseries and the groggy cotton-wool-headed feeling.

Indeed, I immediately felt a bit better, once we’d made it to this new restaurant, with its view out to the lighthouse and the pier, as well as decor that includes shelves decorated with Tayto crisps and highly-polished copper pots, and Hollandaise-coloured tables topped with pots of wild grasses.

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Gaby Soutar

This place serves wholesome grub, with an Irish slant, and is owned by young couple Claire Hanrahan - a chef originally from Dublin, who has experience at places including Edinburgh’s Fhior and The Palmerston - and front-of-house whizz Andrew Ainslie.

They’re open for breakfast and lunch, but the plan is to eventually offer Friday night set dinners, and they currently have pop-ups from guest chefs every second Monday.

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Word has spread, as it was packed on our visit, mainly with twenty and thirtysomethings. Perhaps Leith's cool status is starting to ooze along towards Newhaven?

Anyway, there was to be none of their wine or Newbarns beer for us, as we were on the wagon. Instead, it was two health-promoting You + I Ginger Kombuchas (£4.50 each).

For starters, there’s the choice of a few snacky things and casual ‘toasts’.

We chose the soda bread and butter (£5.50), which featured two gorgeously comforting pads of sweet and malty dark brown bread, with a soft mound of room temperature butter on the side. There was also a plateful of shaved stamps of smooth and nutty Coolea cheese, as well as some zippy sliced pickled gherkins (£6.50).

Then we shared a pair of toasts (£4 each) - both consisted of crispy sourdough and one had a thick topping of silky whipped feta, honey and za’atar, and the other featured sweetcorn, pickled chilli and parsley. I’m glad that we don’t have to worry about the crumbs that we enthusiastically sent skeetering across the table and onto the floor.

For mains, he went for the ultimate hangover cure - the greasy spoon classic of sausage, egg and chips (£15).

“It’s hard to see past that dish, isn’t it?” said our lovely server.

True, though alternatives might have been their slightly more sophisticated smoked haddock chowder, mussels and soda bread (£15), or the panisse, aubergine, tomatoes, cumin and coriander (£12) among other goodies.

Anyway, he was very happy with his choice.

There were two massive and peppery grill-mottled and glossy bangers, which the restaurant sourced from Castle Game. These were teamed with a perfect crispy edged fried egg and excellent chips that were pitched somewhere pleasingly between fat and skinny.

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Gaby Soutar

Sometimes it’s hard to beat a simple thing done well.

I went for the tartiflette (£15), which came in a diamond-shaped ramekin and was loaded with melted Durrus cheese, cream, wafer-thin potatoes and fat lardons. Simple autumnal cockle-warming joy. It came with a few baby gem leaves that were anointed with wholegrain mustardy dressing and a handful of cornichons.

As far as pudding goes, there are cakes in the window, including a come-hither-looking plum and almond tart.

However, those were flying out, with takeaway customers regularly popping in to get a few, along with the conker-coloured loaves of soda bread or size-six-shoe-sized croissants.

I thought I could spy a few of my favourite flies’ graveyard slices on the lower shelf, but they vanished before I could properly inspect them.

Instead, we chose both desserts on the menu - a pear sorbet (£5) and a soda bread ice-cream (£5), which were both served in retro metal sundae dishes. Both were absolutely lush. The pear was fresh, fruity and zingy, while the rich and velvety soda bread ice-cream was topped with crisped-up crumbs and had an excellent sweet and salty vibe going on.

It really is wonderful at this place, which is named after Claire’s late grandmother.

And the prices are excellent, as you can eat like a duchess for £20.

A visit is surely the ultimate hangover cure.

Unhand the Irn-Bru.

Norah, 3 Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh, www.norahnewhaven.co.uk

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