I tried a new Scottish island themed spa experience at this luxurious Edinburgh hotel

It was probably even before Taylor Swift was purported to have stayed at this five-star hotel, when she played at Murrayfield two years ago.

I only realise this, when I go to the wrong entrance. It seems that you no longer get in round the back, which is now for staff only. So, I head back to the front and ask the doorman, in his smart attire, and he points me towards the awning along the Lothian Road side of the red brick building.

There have been other changes since my last visit. For one thing, they are now offering treatments from Hebridean beauty brand Ishga.

I’m a big fan. In fact, I have some of their new Hydra + Oil for face and hair on the go in my own bathroom, and, even though the temperature has gone up, I always use their Warming Body Oil, which smells like bergamot and patchouli.

Today, I’ll be trying their Quiet Tides package - a new exclusive to this hotel. For £139, it includes this 60-minute therapy, which is inspired by the tranquility of the Scottish coast, plus 90 minutes use of their facilities and a glass of bubbly.

I decided to use the sauna and steam room before my rub down. It’s surprisingly quiet here, on a Sunday morning, so I get both to myself and don’t feel self conscious when I shriek in the cold shower. There’s also an upstairs swimming pool and Jacuzzi, but I stick with the heat treatments.

When it’s time for my appointment, I meet therapist Sandra upstairs, under the ceiling of white porcelain flowers. She takes me through to one of their beautifully minimal treatment rooms for 60 minutes of joy. When I’m face down, there’s a sinuous back massage, like eddies of water running across your skin. Sandra uses her knuckles, heels of hands, and forearms to get into all my niggly bits, from the scruff of my neck to my stiff hips. She manages to unearth a particularly large egg-sized knot above my right scapula, and smoothes it into submission.

After 30 minutes of this, you flip over for the facial bit. There’s a cleanse with a delicious-smelling balm, then lots of deep lymphatic drainage massage along my decollete, jawline, cheekbones, forehead and into the scalp. Once my skin is warmed up, Sandra glides iced silver gua sha tools across my skin to bring the temperature down again. Then I’m anointed with some moisturiser and decanted into the relaxation room.

“There’s tea, coffee or, if you’re feeling festive, bubbles” says Sandra. I opt for the boozy option.

There’s no hurry to leave, so I sip my Prosecco, while reading one of their books, The Little Frog’s Guide to Self Care. It features an amphibian, wearing a toadstool hat, as well as different shoes or boots on every page, and imparting - actually, very incisive - self care advice. A lovely end to a toad-ally awesome morning.

Next time, I won’t try to leap in through the staff entrance.

The Caledonian Edinburgh, Curio Collection by Hilton, Princes Street, Edinburgh (0131 222 8836, www.hilton.com)

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