I stayed at Edinburgh's 'best' hotel - a luxurious cocoon on the city's most famous street
This 21-month-old hotel is something very special
Since it opened as a hotel, back in April 2024, I have been very drawn to 100 Princes Street.
My FOMO only increased, when this place, a Red Carnation Hotel, won the AA’s Hotel of the Year 2026, was included in the 2025 50 Boutique Hotels and was awarded the Boutique Hotelier Awards’ Best New Hotel.
However, although it’s situated in the beautiful Victorian a-listed former premises of the Royal Overseas Club, this five-star hotel is still almost completely unknown by locals, unlike the grand dames, aka The Balmoral and The Caledonian, that bookend Princes Street.
Perhaps that’s because its hospitality offerings, the Wallace Restaurant and Ghillie Bar, are currently only open to residents.
Anyway, I am very excited to have made it across their boutique threshold, assisted by doorman Kenny, and into the lavish reception area, with faux palm trees that look as if they’re carved from ice, swirly marble floors like cream stirred into an Americano, and paintings of be-tartened gentlefolk. So very swanky.
And the staff are so warm, with their chic tartan outfits that were inspired by the work of the late fashion designer Alexander McQueen.
“How was your journey?” they all ask, and we have to tell them that we only came from Leith.
Ellie leads us up to our room - The Drummond - via the thickly carpeted and tuberose-scented grand staircase, which features a hand-painted mural across five floors that depicts the nautical travels of Scots. That’s the theme throughout, with little north stars on the doors, and paintings of ships and a compass on the ceiling of The Wallace, which multitasks as a restaurant, library, tasting room and lounge.
This space has the BEST view of the castle. It feels as if you could chuck a piece of Edinburgh rock, and it’d land on the ramparts.
The 29 rooms and suites are all individually designed.
We have a peek at the Isobel Signature Suite - named after Scottish botanist, Isobel Wylie Hutchison - and it’s spectacular, with designer Araminta Campbell’s custom tartan curtains, another perfect castle view, emerald green velvet walls and a massive golden wardrobe that could fit Aslan and his Narnia coterie.
Its bathroom, with double sinks and all the trimmings, is hewn in pure white marble, as inspired by Hutchison’s Arctic travels, apparently.
Our room, with its neutral walls, is comparatively minimal. The Drummond has a neat sitting area, with fireplace and a huge telly, sofa and arty coffee table books. There’s a vast king sized bed, with 100 monogrammed linen - even the cappuccino that I have in The Wallace has a 100 monogram, except in chocolate - another telly, and a small gilt dressing table.
Of course, there is a marble bathroom. They don’t scrimp.
In common with all the rooms, it has a very cute furry sporran with Do Not Disturb on it, for hanging on your doorknob.
We won’t be needing that, as we’ve got an early bird dinner in The Wallace, which we kick off with excellent cocktails - an aviation, with cherry and violet for the lady (that’s moi) and a salt-rimmed margarita for my beau.
The food menu, with chef Willhelm Maree at the helm, features crowd-pleasers like burgers and fish and chips, presumably to suit the US market. There are plenty of American accents in the house tonight.
Thankfully, they do these classics very well. While perching on a leather armchair, I enjoy the crispy kayaks that are potato skins, served with a crowdie dip and jalapeno oil, and he has the haggis bon-bons. Then, there’s a vast slab of salmon with mash and broccoli, and a beast of a burger with sweet cured smoky bacon, caramelised red onions and chips on the side.
Pudding is baked vanilla cheesecake, apple crumble, sticky toffee pud et al.
I do love a hotel dinner, but never as much as brekkie. I have two Weetabix at home during the week, so I need something special on the weekends.
Thankfully, it’s impressive. Rather than a buffet, they do table service. There’s a continental or a cooked list, which, among other things, features porridge with cream and whisky and a full Scottish, but we stick with the cold goodies.
I try a cranachan smoothie, with toasted oats on the top, the fruit plate - syrupy pears, passionfruit, pomegranate seeds and other goodies - coppery croissants and banana muffins, with Edinburgh Butter Co wares, plus smoked salmon with nonpareille capers, and their homemade granola and yogurt. Heaven.
How do I ever go back to Weetabix?
Perhaps if we had been staying longer, I would’ve tried one of their experiences, which include making a bespoke fragrance with Kingdom Scotland, fishing trips, whisky tastings, or use of the Nuffield Gym on Greenside Place.
However, for now, we’re sadly sailing home to Leith.
If only we could’ve dropped anchor for longer.
Nightly rates at 100 Princes Street start at £415 for an Executive Double Castle View Room on a B&B basis, 0131-287 3100, www.100princes-street.com
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