I stayed at East Lothian's best new hotel, and it's been completely transformed from tired to chic boutique

This iconic East Lothian hotel, otherwise known as Kilspindie House, was owned by the eponymous Malcolm and Fiona Duck for nearly two decades.

It wasn’t particularly fancy, but it was affordable and, past midnight, guests would occasionally find themselves teeing off while standing on a stool in the bar.

Let’s say, it had stacks of personality. Anyway, I’m back, for a single night, and I barely recognise the place, now that it's a four-star hotel, The Leddie - named after an original name for the local Peffer Burn.

It smells like new carpets and fresh paint.

The late 18th-century building has been taken over by Northern Irish investment company, Wirefox, who have carried out a year-long renovation and refurbishment of the 27 bedroom hotel - East Lothian’s second biggest, after the Marine North Berwick.

There’s a self-contained Cottage Suite, out back, which used to be staff accommodation, and much of the ground floor of the hotel is now open plan.

We’re shown round by Robert Clark - the general manager, formerly of Scran & Scallie and The Bonnie Badger.

There’s a natural flow to the looping space, from reception, with its painting of a misty gorse-covered hill, to the snug bar area, and round into the smart dining room. If I were Clark, I wouldn’t want anyone to touch the lovely floral bolster cushions, the apple green velvet armchairs, or the cappuccino-coloured leather chairs.

Our Deluxe bedroom is up on the first floor, and it’s equally plush.

There’s a dreamy king-sized bed, plenty of wardrobe space, and a sofa and coffee table, which is topped by glossy magazines. No bath, but we have an excellent wet room, lined with sea green tiles and L'Occitane verbena-scented products.

Of course, there’s the prerequisite Nespresso machine, and some excellent buttery shortbread, which we gorge ourselves on even though it’s 6pm and dinner is at 7pm.

It seemed as if the hotel was virtually unoccupied on our visit, without another peep from the corridor or human sighting across the courtyard.

That changed at dinner. According to Clark, this influx consisted mainly of locals, who were desperate to have a restaurant in the village, post Duck’s. I keep an eye out for Malcolm, as Clark says he often pops in.

The head chef these days is Shaun Lund, formerly of Ballathie House Hotel and Crieff Hydro, among other places.

His food hits that sweet spot between gastropub and smart bistro.

It’s what you’d crave, after a stroll through the local nature reserve, where almost everyone we saw was carrying a long lens camera and, presumably, trying to spot the population of little egrets, the marsh harrier, or pink-foot or greylag geese.

We’d seen plenty of dragonflies, as well as caterpillars that looked like furry stoles.

Although we didn’t make it all the way to Gullane, as planned, we’d worked up enough of an appetite for starters of kedgeree croquette and curry mayo, and home-cured sea trout.

Next was a chicken, bacon and leek pie. Once I’d ordered this, I noticed that almost everyone else in the room was also taking delivery of the same billowing puff-pastry-topped crowd-pleasing creation.

My other half has been off cod, since ordering an overcooked version elsewhere. However, The Leddie renewed his faith in cod, with their baked version. Let us pray.

We shared a super sweet white chocolate mousse, with salted caramel and banana. I should mention the cocktails, too.

The Bonita Applerum was chosen for the excellently punning name, but we loved the herby mixture of Havana Rum, ginger, sage, apple and soda. The equally autumnal Ginger Stag, with Dalmore 12-year-old, ginger, elderflower, maraschino and citrus, was a spiced toddy.

As far as hotel breakfasts go, there isn’t a continental buffet. Instead, expect a two course morning menu for residents (or a slightly different menu for non-residents).

I knew I shouldn’t start with porridge, since it’s so filling, but resistance is futile. It was gorgeous, with a little salt in the mix and honey on the side. And I managed a couple of triangles of toast and a mini croissant, as vehicles for their own apricot jam.

My other half had the yogurt and berry compote, then an excellent full Scottish, with haggis, tattie scone, sausage, mushrooms, bacon and all the trimmings.

Then I went for the smoked salmon and scrambled eggs with sourdough, though next time I’d choose the haddock with poached egg, lemon creme fraiche and spinach.

Check out is 11am, so there was time to digest.

What a comfy nest. It’s a shame that Duck’s is gone, but this place is a quacking successor.

Rooms start from £165 at The Leddie, West Main Street, Aberlady (01875 4406444, www.theleddie.com)