What it's like running Scotland's best restaurant with rooms

The chef patron of a remote Scottish castle that’s won multiple awards speaks to Rosalind Erskine about his inspirations and challenges.

At 36 years old, Colin Nicholson has achieved a lot in the last three years, from opening Mingary Castle during covid restrictions to winning a plethora of awards. His drive and passion for hospitality started at his first part time job at Langass Lodge in North Uist. It’s here that he’d return after studying and, after a stint travelling and working in various kitchens globally, as well as under some well known chefs, Mr Nicholson opened Mingary Castle in 2021. This remote 13th century castle has views of the Atlantic Ocean from its original battlements with 360-degree views of the Ardnamurchan peninsula in which it is located. It’s an imposing site and situation, but it’s this which Mr Nicholson draws inspiration from. He said: “When it came to opening the castle in 2021, I wanted to create something worth travelling for. As we are so remote - located on the Ardnamurchan peninsula on the west coast of Scotland - I set high standards that I wanted to adhere to. I didn't want our location to affect what dishes I wanted to create, as that takes away from the whole experience. I always take inspiration from Mingary Castle’s history to create memorable dishes for guests to continue talking about once they leave.”

Mingary CastleMingary Castle
Mingary Castle | contributed

Like most other hospitality venues, Mingary Castle has had a tumultuous few years, with covid restrictions and energy price rises, but Mr Nicholson said he and his team have ‘powered through these,’ thanks to support from the local community. He said: “Since taking over the castle we have had many challenges. We launched just after the second Covid lockdown, with the first season taking place during the tail end of the pandemic. This was a time which saw a rise in energy bills, courier fees and produce, which was catastrophic for the hospitality industry. However, we powered through all these challenges, and achieving recent awards - such as Chef of the Year at The Scotsman Scran Awards and Restaurant with Rooms of the Year at the AA Awards - are evidence that all our hard work is paying off. We are lucky to be in such a great small community who have supported us through the last three and a half years. We have a great network of local suppliers who ensure we receive the best and freshest produce. Some local producers include: a local fisherman who catches lobsters and langoustines from the water right by the castle, a local farmer for their pork, Isle of Mull Cheese, Tobermory Fish Co., and venison from the Estate.”

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Chef Patron of Mingary Castle, Colin NicholsonChef Patron of Mingary Castle, Colin Nicholson
Chef Patron of Mingary Castle, Colin Nicholson | contributed

The support of the local community and suppliers is key, but Mr Nicholson knows this is a team effort and awards and accolades would not have been possible without them. He said: “I am immensely proud of my small team. They have worked hard to maintain the high standards we set out three and a half years ago, and we really wouldn’t have achieved everything we have over the last 12 months without them. It is a great accomplishment we’ve achieved in such a short period of time. I receive daily feedback regarding the professionalism and standard of our staff, and I’m truly grateful for them every day.” As for the highest accolade, a Michelin Star? One TripAdvisor reviewer stated they hoped this would be achieved. To this, Mr Nicholson replied: “Reviews like this mean a lot to me - for our guests to truly believe in us and that we deserve such a prestigious accolade. It really does give me the encouragement to continue pushing myself to the next level, year on year.”

Not only was Mingary Castle named Scotland’s best restaurant with rooms, but it was also named overall best in the UK at the recent AA Awards in London. Running a restaurant with rooms can, Mr Nicholson admitted, be tough, but it’s ‘so rewarding.’ He said: “I’m lucky in that I really love coming to work in the morning - driving round the corner and down the drive to this magnificent 13th-century Castle knowing we are doing our best every day.”

Mingary Castle

Mr Nicholson is no stranger to creating a dining experience in a unique Scottish location. He has been head chef at the Albert and Michel Roux Jnr Restaurant at Inverlochy Castle as well as head chef at Arisaig House. He said the difference between a restaurant with rooms and a stand-alone venue is the chance to offer an ‘unforgettable overnight experience.’ He said: “With a restaurant with rooms, it gives you the opportunity to continue the high standards of your restaurant and create unforgettable overnight experiences for guests. It really gives guests the chance to relax and take in the dining experience, knowing there’s no rush for them to leave or worry about getting home too late. At Mingary Castle, we work to ensure that guests have a different dining experience every evening of their stay. This is why we have three different tasting menus that rotate during the week. This means having nine different snacks, three different starters, fish, main, and cheese courses, three different desserts and nine different petit fours, every week. It requires a huge amount of work from our team, but it ensures that each guest will have a unique dining experience if they choose to dine with us on their second or third night. This is what I feel lets us stand out from the rest.”

Mr Nicholson and his team have, over a short space of time, helped put a remote Scottish castle on the culinary map. With a beautiful setting, experimental and delectable food, he has indeed created something worth travelling for and I am excited to see where the journey takes him next.

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