From the Harris ceilidh to dinner in a greenhouse - It took years but I'm a convert to communal dining
If the sight of a communal table in a restaurant has you running for the exit, please give it a chance, says Rosalind Erskine.
There’s a tradition on the Isle of Harris that's been spotlighted by their distillery (known as the social distillery) of a ceilidh. While we all know this as the part of a wedding where you can throw, and get thrown, about in a series of energetic dances, it’s also a gathering of good company, with good music and food and drink. Whether it’s dancing or socialising over a dram, gin or meal, it’s the chance to mingle with friends, family and even strangers who, at the end of the night, become friends. According to the team at Harris, the word Cèilidh simply means “a visit in our native Scottish Gaelic language. This isn’t about kilts and Highland dancing, in fact the real heart of the cèilidh lies in a much more relaxed and informal gathering of family and friends anywhere you call home.”
The brand, which has its famous and award-winning gin and now Hearach whiskies, has been hosting pop-up dinners in fabulous Scottish restaurants, the latest being at Five March in Glasgow. I went along with a friend, hoping for a much-needed catch up over the five courses and cocktails. When we arrived, we were sitting at a table right in between four other diners - one couple and two friends. What started out as a kind of awkward series of hellos, ended up in fascinating conversations with everyone at the table, as we enjoyed our delicious meal, drinks and a few drams (thanks to Jim for asking for these!)
This isn’t the first time I’ve walked away from communal dining having had a wonderful evening full of unexpected conversations with people I’d otherwise never have spoken to had I been sat with just my dining companions. From starting 2025 at Fallachan’s (now Michelin recommended) 12 seater chef’s table, to experiencing what a public diner might look like and Wild Kabn Kitchen’s long table to this most recent ceilidh-style dinner, what starts out as something I was slightly apprehensive of (especially when dining alone as I was at the public diner pop-up in Glasgow earlier this summer) has, each time, blossomed into a night of interesting conversation, laughs and learning from others tales of life work and, often, love of whisky.
One of Attest’s three main trends for dining in 2025 was “Personal value: Guests increasingly value restaurants that foster a sense of connection — whether through communal dining spaces, storytelling behind menu items, or staff interactions that create a welcoming atmosphere.” Covid-times are now long behind us in terms of years, but many of us are clearly putting more emphasis on the social aspect of eating together and being part of a group, whether you know your dining companions or not.
Communal dining can be a cost-effective way to eat - from the viral trend of girl dinner and picky bits (basically grazing boards) to initiatives such as public diners and "The Manc Kitchen" which demonstrates the potential of communal dining to foster community and address food insecurity. They also have their place in higher end situations, such as chefs tables which have long been sought-after for those looking to see all the action of the kitchen. So next time you’re sitting next to a stranger or strangers - whether you're anticipating it or not - embrace the chance to get to know someone, if only for a few hours.
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