I tried new Italian restaurant in Edinburgh design hotel and found pizza to die for

This new Italian restaurant opened in Edinburgh earlier this month and forget any misgivings about it being a hotel restaurant, it’s well worth a visit says Rosalind Erskine.

It’s right before the July heatwave when I visited Patatino, which is located in the newly opened Hoxton Hotel in Edinburgh. This stylish, design-led abode has, until recent years, been intrinsically linked with east London. But now the Edinburgh version of the hotel has opened on Grosvenor Street, just a few minutes walk from Haymarket. Inside you’ll find a low-lit bar with plenty of seating and Patatino, an Amfali coast inspired Italian restaurant.

Patatino - which takes its name from an Italian term of endearment (literally ‘little potato’) - is inspired by the traditional trattorias and lemon grove-lined streets of Sorrento. Accessible via the hotel lobby, Patatino also welcomes guests with its own dedicated street entrance, which is unmistakable in the style of an Italian trattoria with a scalloped striped awning and dramatic florals.

Inside, the design draws inspiration from a classic trattoria, but there’s bold glamour in mirror motifs, vibrant hot pink accents, and moody, dramatic lighting which add theatrical flair. It’s a fun, relaxed space.

At its heart, a tiny interpretation of a Baroque-style Italian fountain is surrounded by banquettes upholstered in rich tones of mid-blue velvet, navy leather, and dark-stained timber. Throughout the space, soft green pendant lampshades, trellised columns, and forest green corduroy booths with delicate floral prints introduce a freshness that balances the dusky pink and striped walls, creating an opulent and inviting atmosphere - one which, if you’re like me, you wish you had a dining room and style bold enough to recreate this colour palette and design at home. And don’t get me started on the beautiful crockery.

Patatino pizzasplaceholder image
Patatino pizzas | Eve Javis

But enough of how stylish the restaurant is, what’s on the menu? We started with a glass of prosecco, but there’s also a delicious sounding negroni on the drinks menu before tucking in to sharing plates of cold sliced meats - Mortadella, salami, prosciutto and bresaola and - smoked salmon crudo.

This was followed by trofie, a pasta dish which was a posh pasta pesto but utterly delicious and crucially, so much better than anything you’d make at home. The sauce of fresh basic pesto, beans, slivers of potato and topped with pecorino was full of depth and freshness (with the addition of beans and potato sublime, who doesn’t want carb on carb?) to the perfectly al dente small paste twirls.

Next up was a sourdough-based pizza margherita. As our waiter said, you can tell a good pizza place by trying its margherita. And this was one of the best I’ve had in Edinburgh in recent times. The thin base with chewy crust was covered with Scottish mozzarella, sugo and basil pesto. I could’ve eaten the whole thing, if I hadn’t already eaten most of the pasta.

But more was to come. Cooked on the Josper grill, we shared a 32 day aged sirloin steak and a seabass fillet served on a bed of Mediterranean vegetables and topped with more of that moreish pesto.

Finally dessert, a huge bowl of tirimasu which is plated at the table, was a light and just-sweet-enough end to this surprisingly delicious meal. I say surprisingly as hotel restaurants aren’t always the place to book these days, and can be devoid of atmosphere. But Patatino was a bustling, buzzy space that looks great and delivers on the food as well. Not to mention the wonderful wines.

These simple dishes showcased the quality on offer and, if I hadn’t needed to rush for a train, it would've been all too easy to spend the evening relaxing and chatting over wine, much like you would on a lovely Italian holiday.

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