I had dinner in the ‘murderous’ Scottish Highland hotel dining room that inspired Macbeth
This “gateway to the Highlands” hotel recently reopened after a £1M refurbishment under new owners. Rosalind Erskine visited for a weekend away.
The weather this summer may have been questionable at best, but there’s nothing like the never-ending light in Scotland in the summer, especially when you get to enjoy it while soaking up some wonderful views. The west coast is infamous for its stunning scenery, and excellent seafood, and you can enjoy both at the newly reopened, and renovated, Knipoch Hotel just outside Oban.
Budget or boutique?
This 26-bedroom hotel is the fourth property owned by the Sonas Collection, which reopened it in March 2024 after a £1M refurbishment. It’s also the firm’s largest hotel and the first outside of the Isle of Skye. From £179 per night for a double room - all of which are dog-friendly - it’s a good price for such a stunning location, and close to Oban and beyond.
Room service
Our first floor room overlooked Loch Feochan which was as still as glass all evening. The hotel’s position means you can watch the sun slowly sink behind the hills at about 9.30pm - but remember the midge repellent if you’re heading outside for photos! The room, like the public spaces in the hotel, has a palette of grey walls, with tan leather and cream accents as well as tweed and crushed, deep amber, velvet. The colours are complementary to the views and don’t scream twee. Our ensuite has a huge walk in shower, funky patterned floor tiles and a blue and white colour scheme.
Wining and dining
There are three dining room options for dinner at Knipoch, the bar dining area where there’s a range of seasonal dishes such as venison burger, ham hock and chicken terrine, monkfish and lentil dhal and cranachan cheesecake. For something a bit special, guests and visitors can book the seven course tasting menu in the atmospheric 1635 restaurant. The intimate dining room is the oldest part of the building, dating back to the 16th century. Named after the year found on a carved plaque on the wall of the room, this room is also said to be where Thane of Cawdor was assassinated by Clan Campbell Ardkinglas, after trying to thwart his popularity via witchcraft. The tale of this murder made its way to London and it is said inspired William Shakespeare to write Macbeth.
Both restaurants are headed up by chef Liam Philbin. Liam has a focus on locally sourced ingredients from Argyll and seasonal flavours that reflect the natural beauty of the surrounding area whilst introducing a unique twist to his dishes.
The tasting menu is seasonal and changes regularly but when we were there we dined on canapes of: Knipoch spring vegetable tartlet with truffle egg yolk; Langoustine buckwheat tart with tomato gel and lemon; a very moreish cheese, beer and onion crust tart and Sourdough, laminated brioche with parmesan and wild garlic and cultured butter. These were followed by Jersey Royals with chicken fat emulsion and wild garlic; Crab with fermented white asparagus, pomme soufflé and caviar; hand dived scallop served with thin slices of kohlrabi and a hint of fragrant bergamot; lamb with asparagus, black garlic and morel (or haddock as an alternative). Then a pre-dessert of strawberries served with sheep’s yogurt, strawberry sorbet and long pepper and a wonderfully delicate heather honey panna cotta served with elderflower and yuzu.
The attention to detail in each dish, and letting the local produce shine, made it one of the best meals I’ve had so far this year and the staff, and setting, just added to the enjoyment. After dinner, guests can enjoy a nightcap in the bar or by the fire in the reception area.
Worth getting out of bed for
Oban is only a 15 minute drive away where you’ll find excellent coffee at Hinba coffee roasters as well as a range of shops. Seafood restaurant, located right on the water, Ee-usk remains an ideal spot for lunch or for something more informal try the Oban Seafood hut. Whisky fans will enjoy a visit to the Oban Distillery which pre-dates the town, and was established in 1794 by brothers John and Hugh Stevenson. Daily tours take place in the distillery, which give visitors the chance to experience and find out more about the traditions and craft involved in whisky production.
If you'd like to walk off all that food and drink then a trip to Dunollie Museum and Grounds is a must, especially for history buffs. The museum and grounds, which are home to the ruin of Dunollie Castle, only opened to public tours more than six years ago. For more than 1000 years, the Clan Chiefs and Lords of Lorn ruled large areas of Argyll & The Isles from Dunollie. Today it remains the ancestral home of the Clan MacDougall.
Little extras
Templespa toiletries, a well stocked tea and coffee station and comfortable dog bed and bowl awaited us in our room. Guests can also book the hotel’s hot tub for £10 for an hour, and really relax.
Guestbook comments
The property dating back to the 1600s was acquired by family-run Sonas Collection in 2023 has undergone a £1 million refurbishment, offering plush modern amenities in a beautiful and timeless setting, panoramic views of Loch Feochan, and a new dining experience featuring seasonal and local ingredients to the Scottish west coast.
Hotel info
Knipoch House Hotel
By Oban, Knipoch, Oban PA34 4QT
Phone: 01470 373737
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