We board award-winning, floating foodie flagship, Fingal, in Edinburgh’s port of Leith

It’s actually owned by the trust that runs The Royal Yacht Britannia which is also in Leith’s harbour, so some of its majesty rubs off in style and personalised service.

Budget or boutique

This is as boutique as it gets. Fingal’s style pays the deepest respect to the lighthouses that this ship used to serve. The more time you spend on board, the more you’ll spot the references. The lamp-glass lift that slips between decks, anchor coat hooks and leather clad cabin furniture remind you exactly where you are.

Room service

You might be forgiven if you think you are the only guest aboard, as the staff look after you so well. The rooms have been well thought out and apart from the tell-tale signs of a boat – portholes, decks and water beyond – you wouldn’t image you were afloat. The majority of cabins are large and luxurious. However, my duplex suite has more space and some bespoke features, with a spiral staircase linking the sitting area and the bedroom below. However it is the shower that has the real wow factor. Decorated with glimmering tiles which evoke a watery world, the shower room is cunningly set into the curve of the hull.

Wining and dining

Start off with a cocktail in the Lighthouse bar. Select something sophisticated – perhaps a Lighthouse Martini which uses the Wermod Great British Vermouth created from herbs, roots, and flowers from the Dalmeny Estate, just a handful of miles west along the waterfront. Or take in the art deco elegance around you as you sample a classic G&T with Fingal Gin which features orange blossom and a unique blend of Fingal tea and is made by the nearby Lind and Lime distillery. The three-course menu has plenty to please.

A twist on a classic combination brings pressed confit duck and clementine gel together beside a colourful salad. On the other side of the table the roasted heritage beetroot, whipped goats’ cheese and couscous is also a delight for the tastebuds. The grilled sea bream fillet comes with Jerusalem artichoke and flavour-packed wild mushroom risotto. We greedily tested the Fingal fries with rosemary salt and can confirm they are too tasty to miss. I go for the full chocolate dessert – parfait, brownie and a touch of Baileys cream. My neighbour’s plate outshines thanks to the crunchy, lacy leaf which adorns the fig and pecan tarte. However, the finale is as sweet as they come: a selection of salted caramel petit fours, Drambuie macarons and tablet – perfect with coffee.

Fingal has culinary competition. Leith is a hot spot of Scotland’s finest chefs: there are no less than three Michelin-starred restaurants within a mile. Sam Yorke, chef patron at Heron last year [2023] joined Tom Kitchen and Martin Wishart in displaying the coveted red sign at their restaurants.

Worth getting out of bed for?

With Leith on the doorstep and Edinburgh just a 15-minute tram glide away there is plenty to explore. Personally, I’d stay local and take in the historic streets of the royal burgh, sipping coffee in one of the cafes on the waterfront and browsing the galleries, shops and Saturday market.

My “finds” include Bard where a ring on the bell opens up a beautifully curated collection of Scottish craft. I enjoy browsing in Flux, a long-time favourite for solving gift conundrums, and discovering the vibrant work of Ritchie Collins in his own gallery-studio. I use a guidebook from the Leith Historical Society to discover the history of the buildings I pass. Coffee from the many independent businesses punctuate my walking, giving me a chance to watch the world go by. Of course, I couldn’t miss Britannia and spend ages discovering its secrets – both above and below decks. How the sailors’ wardrooms contrasted with the Queen’s domain is just one of the fascinating insights into life on the royal yacht.

So far, my time has been about the finer things in life, but Leith has an edgy side. And it’s part of what gives the area its character. There are plenty of bars with live music and Leith Walk is a multicultural melting pot – you’ll find products, cuisine and conversations from all corners of the world. Leith was the setting for Irvine Welsh’s gritty 1993 novel, Trainspotting, and Tim Bell of Leith Walks, one of the best known guides, puts it into context for me.

Little extras

The top-deck Lighthouse restaurant hosts breakfast and it’s where Fingal’s famous afternoon teas are served.

Guest book comment

Fingal certainly floats my boat.

Fingal, Port of Leith, Edinburgh https://www.fingal.co.uk/ Best B&B rate for autumn 2024 starts from £400 per night, based on two people sharing a standard cabin.

The Royal Yacht Britannia https://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk/

More Travel – the West Highland Way