See the Seychelles for a unique mix of luxury, adventure and sustainability

Alphonse Island, Seychellesplaceholder image
Alphonse Island, Seychelles

Alphonse Island in the Seychelles, an atoll of sustainable luxury in the Indian Ocean, is both inspiring and relaxing, finds Lisa Marks

Hans Christian Anderson famously said that “to travel is to live” and after a visit to Alphonse Island, you will most certainly be changed for the better.

This is a luxury Seychelles destination with a difference and one that will leave you nourished and revitalised. From the moment you jump into the crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean and gaze on in wonder at the vibrant sea life below, you’re transported to another dimension.

Hawksbill turtles, barracudas, lollyfish, yellow margin triggerfish and more, dart in and around the coral, and they don’t seem to mind who’s watching. Here, the serenity of the location, the stunning scenery and commitment to conservation all play their part to perfection

A flats lunch, where a barbecue and cocktail bar are set up in the middle of the oceanplaceholder image
A flats lunch, where a barbecue and cocktail bar are set up in the middle of the ocean

A trip to Alphonse, a remote island that spans just 1.71 square kilometres, offers magnificent time out from the real world. There’s fairly decent Wi-Fi in the rooms and around the clubhouse but it’s a great opportunity to switch off.

It’s situated on the southern edge of the Amirantes, in the Outer Seychelles, on an atoll that comprises of two other tiny uninhabited islands, St Francois and Bijoutier. En route, I made a pitstop in Mahé, the largest island in the archipelago, before heading to Alphonse by small plane, so my first night was spent at the Eden Bleu Hotel, near the airport. A refreshing swim washed away the memory of long-haul, and I also found time to tour the island’s historic Takamaka rum distillery.

Before transferring to Alphonse, which is so compact the airstrip runs the entire length of the island, all bags are weighed. The maximum allowance is 15 kilos per person, and you also have to step on the scales, so pack judiciously. The rules apply to all, even the 120-strong island staff, who have to wait months for cargo ships to deliver bigger items.

You won’t need much. I was there early April when it was hot and humid. A curly haired gal, I soon acquiesced, storing my frizz safely in a bun for the duration. It’s too hot for hair, make-up, clothes with long sleeves and heels.

A beach bungalow on Alphonse Island with bicycles out frontplaceholder image
A beach bungalow on Alphonse Island with bicycles out front

My initial lodging was at one of their beautiful A-frame beach bungalows and a bicycle was my primary mode of transport. There are no cars here. All rooms have air conditioning and outside showers; mine came with a small green lizard I named Larry.

There are also five gorgeous one-bedroom beach villas with small pools, and two stunning beach retreats with four en suite bedrooms, private pool, inside/outside dining, landscaped gardens and kitchen.

You can arrange for a private chef to prepare your evening meal. At the retreat, Chef Lennox and his team served up the freshest tacos, salads and grilled wahoo, a local fish.

Another day, after a tour of the island’s impressive farm – about two thirds of what you eat is sourced on site – he hand-crafted exquisite platters of sushi I’ll be dreaming about until the end of time.

Food influences are mostly French or Creole and the rule of thumb is to go for the fish, which is nothing less than spectacular. You can also grab tasty lunch bites, such as pulled pork sliders and fries, at the restaurant’s bar on the beach.

Alphonse is a must if you’re after world class saltwater and fly fishing (strictly catch and release only), snorkelling, diving, nature trails, immaculate beaches and wonderful staff, who work tirelessly to make your stay as epic as possible. The best time for fishing and wildlife viewing is from October to May, peaking in April.

The island’s Activities Centre is a main hub with a team of enthusiastic guides, sailors, divers and fishing experts primed to show you the best day of your life. There are regular safety briefings and once you’ve donned a long sleeved, hooded ‘rashie’ (because that sun takes no prisoners), it’s time to set sail.

You can SCUBA and kayak but for me a snorkel, mask and the chance to float above a myriad of rainbow-painted sea life was all I needed. Copious snacks and drinks are provided and one day on the catamaran, a chef prepared lunch.

The fun continues after hours in the restaurant bar, when the various captains announce noteworthy catches, and guests are invited to ring a celebration bell. These intimate nightly gatherings add to the sense you’re sharing something truly special. People were cheered for not just their fishing prowess but for completing cookery classes, passing their PADI and taking part in a beach clean-up.

There’s also a spa, gym, yoga space, tennis court and gift shop on the island but a signature experience is their ‘flats lunch’. The atolls are tidal and when the water is low enough, the crew set up a full barbecue and cocktail bar on a strip of pristine sand in the middle of (literally) the ocean.

Arriving by boat, it’s hard to explain how incredible it is to be sipping a local SeyBrew beer in such a remote location. Then suddenly, water starts to circle your feet and it’s time to leave.

This is all done with great consideration to the environment. The islands’ custodians Blue Safari Seychelles work in collaboration with the Island Conservation Society (ICS) and the Alphonse Foundation to monitor sea and island life.

There are turtle, manta ray and shark tagging programmes, as well as a tortoise nursery, which you can visit, and if you’re lucky, have a baby tortoise pee on your hand!

They hold pre-dinner talks and marine ecologist Elle Brighton, a Brit, who runs their conservation and sustainability programme, explained that as the ocean heats up, the coral reef loses its colour. The next day, I found myself looking out for bleached coral while snorkelling. When you see it with your own eyes, it’s alarming.

Elle also hosted a guided walk of uninhabited St Francois where I saw land crabs, rays, terns and swifts, and waded through thick mangroves. It was as derring-do as I’ve ever done.

I also joined an early morning bike tour and visited the cemetery that dates back to the 17th century, when the Portuguese first discovered the island.

Now, back home and once again plugged in, the magic of Alphonse lingers. I feel the hot air on my face as I cycle along the island’s trails, stopping to say hi to George, the 100-year-old Giant Aldabra tortoise, who likes a tickle under his chin.

I picture the peaceful sunrise walk from my private deck to the shore of the sparkling ocean, taking care not to disturb the resident heron. And I hear the surf splashing against the side of the catamaran as a playful dolphin pod raced alongside us.

If I was 20 years younger I’d have handed my CV to the resort manager on the way out because the pull to stay was so great. With its unique mix of luxury, adventure and sustainability, a trip to this untouched frontier might just be the most extraordinary experience you’ll ever have.

Original Travel has prices starting from £8995 per person, based on two sharing and including return flights from Edinburgh, internal flights and transfers plus eight nights’ accommodation; one night’s B&B at Eden Bleu and seven nights’ full-board in a beach bungalow on Alphonse, staying on a full-board basis. Call 020 3582 4990.  www.originaltravel.co.uk; for resort information visit www.bluesafari.com

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