Stonehaven serves up the best the seaside has to offer on a weekend break
Self-catering Dalriada Luxury Lodges are ideally placed to explore the Aberdeenshire town’s feast of flavours
An unexpected hot day brings out the best of Scotland. The ice cream from the van on the pier and the tempting – but declined – offer of a costume from the wild swimmers on the beach were typical of the welcome in Stonehaven. It could probably win a competition as friendliest town on the East Coast.
It is a refreshing mix of commerce and seaside – independent shops and cafes, a busy harbour and beaches – all just a couple of hours by train from Edinburgh and only 15 miles south of Aberdeen. Perfect for a short break at any time of the year.
As I explore the town, it is the warmth of the people that will stay with me. I meet Marjorie Stephen, the fourth generation of her family to run Giulianotti’s ice cream shop who admits vanilla and chocolate are still best sellers, but that her whisky and treacle or cranachan (using local honey and berries) both have their fans. At Scoops, Ailsa Henry, 23, has invested in buying her own van and tells me excitedly about getting her licence to trade at the Harbour this summer.
After all the chat, walking and sea air, an oasis of calm is welcome and the family- owned Dalriada Luxury Lodges hit the mark.
Budget or boutique
Stylish and calm, these eight self-catering bolt-holes overlooking the town are definitely luxurious.
Room service
Attention to detail is key: there has clearly been a keen eye involved. From the choice of furnishings to the design of the buildings themselves (they are Scottish made kit houses specced up for energy efficiency and sustainability), it’s spot on. Built in 2018, each lodge is the same with the two bedrooms positioned at the back to allow the living area to thrive off the outlook seawards.
Wining and dining
As the lodges are self-catering, breakfast is whatever you make it – but Stonehaven Golf Club next door does a great line in bacon rolls in its daytime restaurant, The View.
Head for the Harbour for the buzzy vibe and while away your time with a waterside beer or a coffee as the sailors, jet ski riders and paddleboarders do the hard work.
If seafood is your thing, then Paul Mair’s Tolbooth restaurant at the Harbour is a must. The langoustine bisque is elevated by a delicate pillar of prawn boudin and the Shetland scallops shine through a well-judged pepper, walnut and pomegranate support act. They are excellent curtain raisers and, although Lobster is the star turn, we go for fillet of coley and North Sea halibut next and find flavours to satisfy adventurous palettes.
The traditional seaside fish supper-seeker also has plenty of choice. Sit down at the Captain’s Table at The Ship’s Inn at the Harbour or collect from the Bay Fish & Chip Shop on the beach near the Open Air Pool. For fans of the deep-fried Mars Bar, the Carron Fish Bar is reputedly its birthplace – although it was called Haven Chip Bar in 1995 when The Scotsman’s Transport Correspondent Alastair Dalton first revealed the delicacy to the world in the local paper.
Worth getting out of bed for?
The cultural highlight of the area is Dunnottar Castle and it really is a must-see. It takes a bit of effort to storm the well defended headland. I have to admit the gradient of the path to it and its 250 steps almost defeat me, but
once inside exploring its buildings and absorbing its history, I don’t notice the next 500 steps inside its walls.
If an “activity” is more your thing, bookings at Dalriada can include a round at Stonehaven Golf Club. Opened in 1888 and improved by James Braid in the early 1900s, the course sits on the cliff top so just take care not to be distracted by the view!
Summer brings the opening of the art deco heated outdoor pool. It is Olympic sized, lined with terraces and hosts activities such as moonlight swimming. Post season there are doggie swims and later in the year ice water sessions.
As we tread the wooden Boardwalk, we have reason to pause at metal sculptures – ships, kissing dolphins, benches – a Viking-inspired painted lighthouse and the delightful planting of Phil’s Garden.
Away from water, in the streets around the Market Square, I find plenty of temptation – fresh produce arts, crafts, books from independent retailers as well as charity shops to browse.
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Little extras
Your canine friend is welcome: dog-friendly walks on the doorstep; bowls, poo bags and treats; easy to clean floors, and a fenced patio.
Guest book comment
Sometimes the best things are right on our own doorstep.
Factfile
Visit Aberdeenshire: www.visitabdn.com
Dalriada Luxury Lodges, Cowie, Stonehaven, Aberdeenshire, AB39 3AF.
The Tolbooth Restaurant, www.thetolboothrestaurant.co.uk
Dunnottar Castle, www.dunnottarcastle.co.uk
Stonehaven Golf Club, www.stonehavengolfclub.com
Stonehaven Open Air Pool, www.stonehavenopenairpool.co.uk