I go up the Caledonian Canal without a paddle

My shipmates (two school friends) and I had arrived promptly for our 3pm check-in and, after the inevitable paperwork and provision-loading, we’re ready to learn the ropes. Yet, taking everything Ben is saying onboard, I’m flummoxed that they’ve entrusted this 13-metre-long, motored vessel to us, three complete novices. 

But then, that’s what Le Boat is all about. Established in 1969, French-founded Le Boat states that “Not many of our new customers have driven a boat before [but] they quickly realise how easy it is and soon become confident navigating the waterways.” 

Today, it’s the biggest provider of boating holidays on inland waterways across eight countries in Europe as well as Canada. And Le Boat’s simple approach to sailing enables those who haven’t had time, inclination or access to a boat before to give it a go. 

As designated Captain, though, I’m feeling slightly out of my depth. Ever comfortable with a paddle in hand, be it in a kayak or on my SUP, a boat is a whole other proposition. Bobbing about waiting for our turn to enter the lock, rain slicing sideways, I ask Ben if he always helps departees here: “Yes, I usually see people through this lock,” he confirms. “But after this, you’ll be fine.” 

We chew through the dos and don’ts again while my crew grows increasingly damp holding the ropes tight, front and back (sorry, forward and aft). Eventually, the water lowers and gates yawn open; we slide into the lock, Ben hops off as we rise and I wonder whose brilliant idea this was.

Oddly though, his departure brings an unjustified confidence. We cruise along the waterway of Laggan Avenue in the low light of the late summer evening with just the occasional zig-zag as I get used to the not-entirely responsive steering. 

We’re aiming for our first overnight mooring point at the southern end of Loch Oich by the Well of the Seven Heads Monument. I slow, reversing to a stop and using the thrusters to edge sideways before Ally and Lindsay launch themselves on to the pontoon, diligently repeating the knots Ben demonstrated. All moored up, I begin to think this lark might just be idiot-proof after all. 

We rejoice with a kitchenette-cooked feast before retiring to our berths. Elegance sleeps up to six, with three toilets and three showers, but there’s no denying a full boat would be snug for sleeping. Beds are comfortable if neat and the space is compact but there are numerous cupboards for storage. Swaddled in my blanket, the gentle ‘lublub’ of water on the hull soon sends me into a deep sleep. 

I wake early to big news from deck: the sky is blue and we’re encircled by curious ducks looking for a free breakfast. Soon, we’re making our way up Loch Oich as if we’ve been doing it for years. It’s a delicious day: steep, wooded slopes on the right, the ruins of 17th-century Invergarry Castle, once a Jacobite stronghold, on the left, and we steer a relatively straight path through the green and red buoys dotting the length of the loch. 

Four-mile-long Loch Oich marks the highest point of the Caledonian Canal, itself a 60-mile-long engineering feat constructed in the 19th century to connect the northeast coast at Inverness with the west coast at Fort William through a series of man-made canals and natural lochs. 

Looking at our trusty map, there are various obstacles ahead and, as we close in on the first, Aberchalder Swing Bridge which carries the A82, I see to my dread that there’s a gathering of fellow Le Boats waiting for it to open. This means rafting (aka, tying onto another boat). 

Soon ‘helpful’ advice is being conveyed but aside from a brief detour 90 degrees in the wrong direction, we manage to secure ourselves and it’s not long until a sense of camaraderie kicks in. An unofficial flotilla forms, encouraging each other on through first Cullochy Lock then Kytra Lock, throwing ropes and yelling instructions, no one with any real clue what they’re doing, as we bump and glide our way in formation towards Fort Augustus. 

Having opted for a three-night break, our limit timewise is the southern side of Fort Augustus’s mighty locks; mercifully, as it turns out. Anyone tackling the five stepped locks that bisect the popular Highland town and carry boats down to Loch Ness is watched intently by countless daytrippers, coach parties and hikers enjoying the spectacle. 

More than happy to stay canal-side, we raft to our new friends and strike out on a SUP session, made even more enjoyable by the noticeable lack of wind and glassy, calm waters. A boating break such as this, travelling at a steady pace with no specific timetable, enveloped in natural beauty, is a wonderful way to unwind. Whether on a paddleboard or in the pages of a book, this is slow travel at its most inviting.

With roots dating from at least the 1st century CE, Fort Augustus resembles more of the 18th and 19th centuries. Following the 1715 Jacobite Uprising, General Wade built a fort here and a settlement grew steadily. Named after William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, who would lead government troops at the Battle of Culloden, it was besieged by the Jacobites in early 1746 before that seismic event. In the late 19th century, the fort was acquired by the Benedictine order, where sections were swallowed into Fort Augustus Abbey. 

The town is achingly attractive: the locks dominate the centre; shops, restaurants, bars and activities such as boat trips on Loch Ness entertain, while the Caledonian Canal Centre gives a glimpse into the local heritage. 

After an evening that ends with a whiff of local whisky, we embark on our final day, cruising back to where we began with an outrageous sense of achievement. I could barely believe the transformation from our nervous uncertainty to a confident, working team, each sure of our roles. 

Mooring for our last night outside Laggan Locks in preparation for the 9 am check-out, we settle into the cosy hull of The Eagle floating barge pub with its two delightful dogs to dissect our voyage. Because it really felt like a voyage, one we’d tackled as naive boating-newbies. Was it challenging? In parts, yes. Was it fun? Absurdly so. Would we do it again? Absolutely. 

Kirsten was a guest of Le Boat. A three-night, self-catering package from Laggan aboard Elegance in 2025 starts from £1,793 per boat / £299 per person. For more information, please visit leboat.co.uk.

Three top tips

• Be sure to read what’s not included in the price including fuel and deposit
• Go with people you can shout at! Those friends or family members who will instantly forgive tempers fraying
• Take your toys! SUPs, bikes, kayaks; there are plenty of spots to stop and explore along the way