Save Harris Tweed sheep from a fate worse than shearing

Someone somewhere is probably wearing it – as they are pretty much indestructible, I know this because I have a second-hand 1970s jacket myself, as well as another bought five years ago at Edinburgh Airport. They will both outlast me.

I confess, I simply adore Harris Tweed and have bought it as a gift, made into hats, purses and handbags. It is always well received for its unique feel, attractive look and the artisanal craft it requires.

So when I read that People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) had written to the Harris Tweed Authority Chief Executive, Calum Iain Maciver, calling on it to desist from using natural wool and replace it with hemp or spun from soy or flax I wondered if the vegan activists fully understood what such a change would mean for the Western Isles.

I need not have worried any harm might come to this great Scottish cultural icon, for while other corporates tend to take the route of least resistance when their business is attacked, Harris Tweed’s CEO politely but firmly took no prisoners.

PETA’s case was that the production of wool causes “immense suffering” and “wreaks havoc on the planet”. An example of alleged rough treatment by some sheep shearers videoed across the UK was cited as if this was representative. Blaming all sheep shearers for untypical cruel behaviour to their sheep is rather like condemning all doctors using the example of Dr Harold Shipman.

Typically, PETA went further and argued the brand name should be changed to Harris Weed and adulterated the trademark Orb design that is the textile’s mark of authenticity and exclusiveness. It may all seem a little tongue-in-cheek but it is in fact standard practice for PETA’s business model of making exaggerated and outrageous statements that have no possibility of achieving change – and make no difference to the welfare of any animals.

Recently PETA denounced the Prince and Princess of Wales for allowing their pet Cocker Spaniel to have a litter of puppies. The Royals were condemned as being “staggeringly out of touch” and of “churning out puppies” while the Princess was receiving treatment for cancer.

Attacking the names of various British pubs is another regular ploy of PETA. Anything to do with cock-fighting, foxes, British bulldogs – is viewed by PETA as fair game (excuse the pun). Unsurprisingly, publicans and their punters rally to the defence of their local watering holes and takings invariably improve as new customers seek to show their solidarity.

The reality is PETA is not interested in winning, it’s interested in headlines that help raise funds from adherents, and simply moves on to another community’s beloved pub – or in this case the Harris Tweed Authority. That is grifting, not campaigning and deserves to be called out accordingly.

I might add that if we are to consider the fate of the sheep then we have to ask what would become of them were they not providing their fleeces to be spun by the Hebrideans? Would mainland farmers and island crofters not simply take them to the abattoir?

The yarn for Harris Tweed yarn is blended from the wool of Cheviot and Scottish Blackface sheep, with some local Outer Hebrides sheep also contributing. The number of sheep in the Outer Hebrides alone has already fallen from 299,000 in 2000 to 143,000 in 2021.

Harris Tweed is more than an attractive cloth, however, it is woven into the heritage and culture of the people and “bound up with the Gaelic language, history, and the unique landscapes of the islands”, says Maciver. It’s a symbiotic relationship that deserves support for both.

UK sheep typically provide between 2-6 lbs of wool each year which, explained Mr Maciver, “must be removed for the animal's wellbeing; if left unshorn, the fleece can cause discomfort, impaired mobility and increase the risk of disease. Shearing is a routine, humane procedure carried out by trained professionals, many of whom come from generations of sheep farmers. They understand and prioritise animal welfare.”

I’m sure they do, it’s in their interest to do so.

What PETA clearly had not taken account of was, as Mr Maciver pointed out, is how the Harris Tweed Authority is bound and protected by the Harris Tweed Act 1993, requiring it to only use 100 per cent pure virgin wool. For anything to change would require a new Act of Parliament and that’s not something on anyone’s agenda.

To ram home the seriousness of protecting its unique status Mr Maciver also referred PETA’s parody of its trademark, stating,

“Harris Tweed is also protected by its own registered certification mark, the Orb device with accompanying script. The Orb mark is only applied to the cloth after inspection and approval, guaranteeing that every length of Harris Tweed has been produced in accordance with the legal definition.

“Given this unauthorised use and alteration, I would ask that you immediately remove the adulterated mark from your website, from all other communications and immediately remove the WeTranfer link to the image from your website. I would be grateful if you could confirm by return your agreement to come into compliance regarding the misuse of the Orb certification mark.”

Hold my Harris Tweed jacket, one might say…

On hearing of PETA’s grandstanding a friend remarked to me it was time he bought another suit or waistcoat – I doubt he was alone. Now where’s my debit card?

Brian Monteith is a former member of the Scottish and European parliaments and a campaign advisor to PETA-Watch