I stayed in ‘splendid’ hotel in Italy's Champagne region - it was a surprising winter hit

A region of rolling hills extending from Lake Iseo, following the flow of the river Oglio, Franciacorta is just 20 kilometres from Brescia and Bergamo, 60 kilometres from Milan and just over 100 kilometres from Verona and Mantua.

Owned by the Moretti family, Ms Pogliani started her career at L’Albereta before returning in her 50s to take on the role of sorting everything from wedding proposals to golf buggy tours of the grounds, which is where we spend a wonderful half hour learning how special a place this is. Though this is clear on arrival - from grounds dotted with artworks and secluded seating to the almost hidden main villa - the last autumn colours and fairy lights just add to the sense of stumbling on a hidden paradise.

Budget or boutique?

L'Albereta has 53 rooms but somehow feels homely. With excellent attention to detail, and double room prices from €360 per night based on two sharing on a B&B basis, it's definitely more boutique than budget.

Room service

Every room is decorated differently at L'Albereta, meaning you'll have a slightly different experience if you visit more than once. My room had a huge canopy bed, desk area, armchairs and traditional stone fireplace. The colour scheme was buttery yellows, neutrals and teal, which combined with walnut furniture gave a stately home vibe. The bathroom was full of warm terracotta marble with jacuzzi bath and double sink.

Wining and dining

This is Italy so there's an expectation the food will be good. It's particularly good at L'Albereta's restaurants, from all day dining with seasonal dishes at Leone Felice (the lobster ravioli was an excellent lunch) and excellent grilled steaks at Quintale, to wellness meals at Ristorante Benessere and the ‘world's best’ pizza at La Filiale, a small restaurant from celebrated chef Franco Pepe. People travel from Milan thanks to the now famous margherita sbaglitata, a reverse of the classic pizza with cheese underneath perfect lines of tomato and basil sauces on top. Book as it's busy, but well worth it.

Breakfast is a classic Italian buffet with pastries, coffee, meat, cheeses, tarts and breads. The view of the lake and mountains is a stunning backdrop to the first coffee of the day.

There's also a couple of bars - Stanza 54 and in Leone Felice - and lots of cosy nooks to relax with an aperitif.

Worth getting out of bed for

The hotel's spa is a huge space with a swimming pool, steam rooms, sauna and treatment rooms. L'Albereta has long been a haven of Italian luxury and wellness. But now, after first partnering with wellness pioneer Henri Chenot 20 years ago, the hotel's Chenot Espace has reopened following an extensive refurbishment - proudly retaining its status as the only Chenot-signed wellness sanctuary in Italy.

The family's Bellavista vineyard is a short walk through the grounds and open for tours and tastings. Nearby town Iseo is a 15-minute drive, with charming shops and cafes. We enjoyed a 40-minute private boat tour of Lake Iseo with Iseo Taxi Boat. You'll learn about the history of the area, which famous faces tried to buy property on private islands and seasonal festivals while soaking up beautiful views and sipping on local sparkling wine.

After a day out, relax with a massage or treatment at the spa. From multiple options - relaxing to aesthetic treatments - I had my first cupping massage and left feeling invigorated.

Little extras

Small welcome cakes, and specially made, amazing-smelling toiletries were lovely.

Guest book comments

L’Albereta is a beautiful, ivy-masked, family-friendly villa set in the Alpine foothills between the Po Valley and southern shore of Lake Iseo. The 53 rooms all have their own unique twist. A stone’s throw from the Bellavista Winery and home to some of Italy’s finest sparkling wine, the property oozes Italian glamour.

Hotel information

L’Albereta, Via Vittorio Emanuele, 23, 25030 Erbusco BS, Italy, www.albereta.it/en