A two-and-a-half hour flight from Edinburgh to Biarritz makes the French Basque coast ideal for a spring break

A walk through Saint-Jean-de-Luz is pretty much what you expect in a French town: pavement cafés, chic shops, and buildings dressed in shutters and balconies. The added bonus is a gorgeous sandy beach, with views of the Pyrenees and evening surfers. This one-time whaling port has a busy harbour and plenty of history to entertain me for a short break.

The town was really put on the map by the wedding of Louis XIV and María-Teresa in 1660. This marriage marked the end of the Franco-Spanish War and the lavish wedding was in the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste. The house which Louis stayed is still owned by the descendants of his 17-th century hosts, the Lohobiague family who had built it in 1645. Today, a tour of the house gives a fascinating glimpse of the times.

On a Sunday morning I find myself inside the Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste during mass. The large building with its ornate baroque altar is so packed that some of the congregation are in the ancient oak galleries that cling to its tall walls. This devoted gathering is in contrast to the entertainment I encounter outside.

First, the main square, Place Louis XIV is a captivating showcase for Basque dance; later it welcomes vintage cars at the end of their rally. The buzz of these events is fun, but what is just as entertaining is being able to sit on the beach under clear blue skies in 25 degrees at the end of September. The crescent of golden sands is just too tempting.

The Grande Plage is one of the main summer attractions of Saint-Jean-de-Luz and is evidence of the success of Napoleon III’s mid-19th century project to protect the town which had been ravaged by the Atlantic Ocean’s storms. New sea defences, plus the growing popularity of the Basque coast as a tourist destination, put Saint-Jean-de-Luz at the heart of early 20th-century European society.

Explore the streets behind the beach and the legacy of those early visitors is a variety of shops – several run by the same families for generations. Beside the obvious tourist emporia are family-run gems supplying leather goods, Basque linen, espadrilles, coffee, pastries, Espelette chilli peppers and even berets.

Overlooking a typical town square, Hotel Madison fits the French town playbook perfectly, with its classic red shutters and iron balconies ... until you step through the front door where sharp design and sophisticated style take over.

Budget or boutique

Dating back to 1911, the Madison has been a hotel most of that time, but the Olano family, which owns the fleet of lorries which criss-crosses France with supplies, has recently transformed it into a chic 35-bedroom Basque-inspired hotel. There’s also accommodation in three stylish self-catering flats across the street.

Room service

From luxurious showers to hidden cupboards and stunning light fittings, I love the bold style created around the traditional Basque striped linen and the graphic hotel logo which features the iconic town lighthouse.

Wining and dining

Food is an integral part of Basque life from the delicious Basque Gateau that quickly becomes my go-to breakfast treat to tapas or the simple plat du jour and the almost religious coffee drinking. The Madison’s brasserie serves plenty of food for an end-of-day drink and light supper which suits me as the French way of a set menu at lunch signals I’m on holiday.

In the historic heart of the town, Alma is small, modern and packed for mid-week lunch. The menu du marché delights my companion with roasted squash, creamy cod bake and apple dessert. That and my delicious crab brioche demonstrate chef Sergio Meylou’s creed of “bistronomy” which places seasonal Basque produce centre stage.

At the Golf de Chantaco, Le 1928 Restaurant in the art deco clubhouse, is open to the public and we choose the terrace to sample the locally sourced menu. My tender baked cod was accessorized with rice and sweet potato puree, a perfect plate for a sunny lunch. But the treat was in the dessert designed specially for the indecisive – or prepared to share – diner. The Café Gourmand is an array of small servings of the clubhouse favourites.

At the Madison reception, Helene has no difficulty creating a list of suggestions for evening meals. Perversely, having revelled in French food, I go to an Italian not 100 meters away and enjoy a wood-fired truffle ham pizza bianca. Bellini is a real find – you could easily walk past without giving it a second look, but it’s a locals’ favourite with good cause.

Worth getting out of bed for?

With a two-and-a-half hour flight from Edinburgh to Biarritz, the French Basque coast is an attractive spring or autumn break destination. From the delightfully small airport, a bus takes you to Saint-Jean-de-Luz in about an hour for 1.50 euros. Three or four nights in Saint-Jean-de-Luz is ideal: the shops, the history and the gorgeous beach should be enough, but if you’re a golfer there are some fantastic courses close by, including Chantaco which was founded in 1928 and is managed by the Lacoste family. The daughter of the founder married René Lacoste, the French tennis champion, in 1930.

Wander the narrow streets behind the beach and when you have had your fill of the shops and cafes, explore the port or market hall and tour the house where Louis XIV stayed or the church he was married in. Alternatively indulge in some thalassothérapie at the beach-front Thalazur Institute. Treatment rooms and spas have views of the beach through one-way glass.

Venture across the mouth of the Nivelle river and you’ll find yourself out at the Socoa Fort. It’s a fantastic viewpoint of the bay, but a few steps away is one of the most fascinating wineries I’ve ever been to. Egiategia creates submarine wine, fermenting vats of grape juice from Basque vines in the waters that you can see from the terrace. Emmanuel Poirmeur has been working on the concept for more than 15 years and his Dena Dela wine is perfect for the typical Basque table of small plates of cheese, meat, fish – magically pairing with all the different flavours.

Little extras

Hotel Madison’s spa is impressive. Not only is there a 11.5m swimming pool, spa bath and gym area, but there is an infrared sauna. I particularly love the mood shower where you can experience the colours and sounds of the Luzien dawn or the eucalyptus scent and cool “thunder” of La Rhune, the Pyrenean peak (usually) visible from the town.

Guest book comment

My tickets are booked for the spring.

Factfile

Hotel Madison, 25 Bld Thiers, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz (madison-saintjeandeluz.com)

Rooms from 160 euro or apartments from 300 euro, both plus taxes and breakfast.

Pay Basque Tourism (www.tourisme64.com)

Office de Tourisme de Saint-Jean-de-Luz (www.saint-jean-de-luz.com)

Ryanair flies twice a week April-October from Edinburgh (and some English and Irish airports) to Biarritz. www.ryanair.com

Egiategia, Maison des Blocs, Zone Portuaire de Socoa, 5 bis Chemin des Blocs, 64500 Ciboure (en.egiategia.fr)

Golf de Chantaco (www.chantaco.com) and Le 1928 (www.le1928chantaco.fr), 550

Route d'Ascain, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz

Alma, 6 rue du 17-Pluviôse, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz (www.restaurantalma.fr)

Bellini, 31 Rue Sopite, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz (restaurantbellini.fr)

Thalazur Saint-Jean-de-Luz, Place Maurice Ravel, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz (www.thalazur.fr/saint-jean-de-luz/thalasso/

Explore France www.france.fr)