Beyond the oilfields of TV drama Landman, West Texas is a wild and wonderful place

“Why have you come to West Texas” he asks, one part curious, one part incredulous.

And driving from Midland through the Permian Basin, setting for oil drama Landman, where petrochemical plants, refineries and nodding donkey pumps line the highway, its charms were a little hidden.

Yet, we are fascinated. It wasn’t dull, but a mile by mile illustration, through a desert-like landscape, of America’s economic muscle at work.

Our destination is Big Bend National Park, the most southerly of America’s great parks, which straddles the Mexican border. First, though, we are visiting Alpine, a town which sits on a high plateau in the Chihuahuan Desert. Dating back to 1882. it was built and prospered from the railway which runs through it. Huge freight trains still rattle through at all times of the day and night.

We are staying at the Alpine Bed and Breakfast, a lovely old place that dates back to the 1890s. A Stars and Stripes and Lone Star flag are proudly displayed outside and the welcome is warm inside from owners Tom and Sharon Kelner. Breakfast is a leisurely and sociable affair sitting at a table with fellow guests, who in our case were mostly from other parts of Texas. The food is good too, with homemade breads, regulars including avocado on toast, fruits, yogurt with Texas honey and pecans and a special each day, including Texan dish sausage, gravy and biscuits (a butter milk scone) and on another day, a chorizo frittata with cheese, spinach and tomatoes.

The breakfast table is where plans can be hatched and Sharon has a leaflet and guide to pretty much everything in the region. We go on a scene-setting 75-mile loop, which takes in Fort Davis, a National Historic Site. It’s a fascinating example of a frontier military post from the Indian Wars period, which was established to protect travellers on the San Antonio-El Paso Road.

It’s pretty mountainous in these parts – Alpine is at almost 4,500ft above sea level – and just driving is spectacular and quiet. At one point we drive for around 40 minutes without seeing another vehicle. It is hot though, and leaving the air con of the car you are hit with a blast of dry heat and hiking and climbing hills is hard work. In late September/early October temperatures still reach 31C plus.

Another day we visit Marfa, a small town which has become something of an artsy hub, thanks to the legacy of influential US artist Donald Judd, who moved there in the 1970s. It is home to his foundation and various galleries – including the Chinati Foundation museum – and independent shops. We mooch around and pick up a sandwich at the wonderful Sentinel cafe, which is also home to the not-for-profit Big Bend Sentinel newspaper ($1), and eat in the shade of the court house.

Back at Alpine, we visit the Museum of the Big Bend ($10 entrance) based at Sul Ross University, which also has a small but lovely permanent exhibition of paintings by Texan artists, including Fred Darge and Tom Lea. We ate at the very popular Reata (named after the ranch in the film Giant) and the cheap and cheerful Mexican place, La Casita. Walking back, we came upon the university’s American Football team training at its Jackson Field stadium. The Lobos were getting ready for their first home game of the season and as we watched found ourselves in conversation with one of the young coaches. It’s that kind of place, friendly and open. On our last evening we call in the Ritchey and sit out with a margarita watching one of the nightly live acts that perform there.

Our next destination is Camp Elena near the ghost town of Terlingua, 80 or so miles south of Alpine and on the edge of Big Bend National Park. Our two nights are under canvas in the desert, but not exactly in a tent. This place is glamping in extremis. A solar-powered cluster of eight pods with spectacular views towards the Christmas mountain range, our accommodation is accessed via a key code on the door and leads to a galley kitchen and large bedroom/living space with a balcony. Together with the smart ensuite, it has all the style of an upmarket boutique hotel. The bedroom/living area has canvas walls and canvas-lined roof. It brings the outside in, the high winds whistling and shaking the walls without any sense you were going to get blown away. It is magical and romantic. A dark sky area, the stars at night are amazing. There is a telescope in the pod, but after barbecuing something for dinner on the balcony, we sit out by the fire pit and gaze at the Milky Way.

And so to Big Bend National Park, 800,000 acres of desert, rivers, mountains and canyons. You can hike, camp and kayak here. While the big hitters such as the Grand Canyon, Yosemite and Yellowstone get more than 4 million visitors each, Big Bend had around 560,000 visitors last year. A seven-day pass to bring a car into the park costs $30. We had downloaded the Just Ahead app, which picks up your location and offers a guide to the region and in the park itself. We started with the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive, a 30 mile route with lots of opportunities to park up and walk a trail, or see a notable view. It is jaw-droppingly spectacular.

The combination of the rugged Chisos Mountains, the wide vista of the Chihuahuan Desert and the Rio Grande, which carves through the limestone cliffs at the Santa Elena Canyon, our destination, is nothing short of awe-inspiring.

We hike the trail, crossing the dry river bed of Terlingua Creek to access the path, which requires a scramble up, and then a steepish climb. We are armed with wide brimmed hats, sun screen and lots of water. It is worth it. We are right on the border with Mexico, a stone’s throw across the Rio Grande, the cliff walls sheer above us, the iconic river by our feet. Why were we in West Texas? For all of this. For the adventure and the experience. What a place.

Flights to Midland Odessa, Texas from Glasgow in September 2026 including one week of car hire, from £1399pp with Barrhead Travel, 0330 094 8364, www.barrheadtravel.co.uk; Alpine Bed and Breakfast from $180 per night, www.alpinetxbnb.com; Camp Elena, from $111 per night, https://www.campelena.com/; Big Bend National Park, https://www.nps.gov/bibe/index.htm; For more information, visit https://www.traveltexas.com/