I stayed in a historic Speyside estate's holiday cottage and it was a dreamy autumn bolthole
If you’re planning a wedding, this location could capture your heart
There is SO much to discover at Innes House and Estate in Elgin.
However, it may be a bit random, but I will forever remember this castle as the place where I discovered the shaggy ink cap. This alien-looking mushroom springs up overnight, and is white, pink and black inside. It deliquesces when picked, and the resulting liquid was once used as ink. Amazing. I’ve never seen anything like it.
We discover these fascinating fungi on an autumnal foraging stint, which takes place in the grounds of the grand peach-hued turreted house, with its deer statue and atmospheric courtyard, walled garden and orchard. The tour is led by Tim Maddams, former head chef of River Cottage Canteen in Devon and now based in Moray. As we chat, he carries a basket of our finds, including elderberries, bay leaves and quince, so we can make a vodka-laced infusion later.
On our visit, we won’t be munching shaggy ink cap. I’m not sure it’s that edible.
Instead, he cooks us a glorious lunch of mackerel, followed by lobster broth, and panna cotta.
We’re also having a postprandial tour of the house, led by historian/head housekeeper, Kristy, as well as estate owner, Ed Tennant. They offer these along with other activities, including star-gazing and whisky tasting, the Maddams foraging and lunches, ceilidhs and even murder mysteries.
Kristy talks us through the history of the land - situated between the shores of the River Lossie and the River Spey, and which was granted to Berowald the Flemish back in 1160 - as well as the building and the various families who have inhabited it.
There have been some interesting residents, including various Earls of Fife, one of whom separated from his wife after she attempted to shoot him. Twice. In the library, you’ll discover books on botany that were gifted to the wife of the fifth Earl of Fife, Lady Agnes Hay, by her cousin, Queen Victoria. I can't help but wonder if there’s a shaggy ink cap in there.
The Tennant family took over in 1900, and have now had it for five generations.
They have made their mark, including, Ed says, by installing much needed heating in the Nineties, and turning a corridor into a gallery that's dedicated to the family’s military history. Now, they’re letting out the entire home as a wedding venue, events space and holiday destination.
The venue sleeps 38, and boasts two ballrooms, a drawing room, library, whisky room and more.
The place is unique in that it’s not a five-star establishment, but retains its uncontrived and comfortable vibe, with family photographs everywhere. I don’t think you’d be too worried about mucky finger prints, if, say, you had kids staying.
However, we won’t be sleeping here, though I wouldn’t say no to one of the gorgeous four-poster beds. We’re not in the two-bedroom Gatehouse either, though maybe next time I’ll book into this cool property. I better be fast though, as Ed says it’s hugely popular.
We’re in the new Viewfield Farmhouse, which is next door to one of the working farms on the estate.
It was dilapidated before they refurbished it, and, after an 18-month makeover, it opened earlier this year and is pristine, with pale carpets, a huge kitchen with farmhouse table, Aga and doors that open out to the patio, which boasts a barbecue and further seating. There’s also a smarter dining room that’s lined with oil paintings, and a comfortable living room, with more family photos.
There are five bedrooms, to sleep eight people, spread across three levels. We’re in the downstairs boudoir, which is simply and cleanly decorated, with an en-suite that features a huge shower and freestanding bath.
To fill the space, the rest of the family, from nearby Fochabers, have come for a night in our Moray bolthole. The kids are excited to take the third floor bedrooms, up in the eaves of the house. The grown-ups quickly bag all the ones with en-suites.
We’re here over the weekend of Storm Amy, so the house is being tested by the winds.
Thankfully, we all feel very cosy, while playing Uno in the drawing room, while branches whip around outside, and the pheasants, who had been very industrious at dusk the night before, scuttle off to their nests.
If the weather had been better, we might have gone out for dinner, to Orrin, in Elgin, or Catch 79 Seafood Bistro in Lossiemouth.
Instead, we battened down the hatches, and I quietly hoped that the pheasants and my shaggy ink caps were okay.
I suppose I could have invited them indoors.
After all, at Viewfield Farmhouse or Innes House, you can’t say that you don’t have - drum roll, please - mushroom.
Viewfield starts from £360/night for 2025/26, with a two night minimum stay. Innes House starts from £4,500 a night from October to March, self-catering, with a minimum two night stay.
www.inneshouse.com
Read more: “Inside the ‘important’ Scottish castle, with its own railway, on sale for offers over £3,250,000”
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