I spent a glorious weekend at Scotland's most discreet and swish luxury hideaway

We’ve checked into their new Seall Lodge, which overlooks the Dumfries & Galloway hotel and their own private cove, when this glamorous visitor appears with a rumble from the clear and blue heavens. He parks on the freshly robo-mowed helipad, then dashes into reception with his backpacks.

There’s a group of women here for the day - maybe a bridal party - and they use the stationary copter as a selfie backdrop. When he comes out later, he’s bombarded with questions.

We watch this scenario unfurl, from our hillside vantage point, framed by bright yellow gorse, saplings and a burgeoning wildflower meadow.

Anyway, it turns out that he’s not a celebrity. Rather, he’s the airborne chauffeur for someone else, who has been dropped off at an alternative location.

However, if that arrival was rather James Bond-esque, we’re the ones who have bagged the most 007 accommodation at this destination.

You could describe the original five-star 10-bedroom hotel as soporifically cosy, historic and luxurious. It has thick carpets and opulent wallpaper, and a Churchill Suite where Winston was supposed to have stayed when he met Dwight D Eisenhower during the D Day landings. That room’s bathroom features a 100-year-old enamelled bath.

This building is also notable for appearing in The 39 Steps by John Buchan, and was the home to a decorated submariner. I’m especially charmed by the original servants’ bells in the corridor, with ones for the Ladyship's Bedroom and Bachelor's Room. Old-school.

However, the brand new lodge is contrastingly box fresh and mod-con-tastic. Bond would be more into this, surely.

The two-bedroom, two-bathroom stepped timber and zinc house was designed by architect John Murray, and has amazing views across the Port of Spittal Bay.

You can also see the hotel’s own wee beach, which is strewn with pebbles, vast frilly ribbons of kelp and cockle shells, and is a hang out for the pink-footed black guillemots.

Their original two bedroom self-catering property, Shingle Cottage, is positioned nearer the water. We looked down on this cabin and the other sights from our upstairs sun deck, where we baked ourselves like gnarly lizards. There was no need for the wood-burning stove indoors.

This bright upper floor, with its floor-to-ceiling doors, also features an open plan kitchen, dining and sitting area, with a copper-coloured Bang & Olufsen telly.

Apparently, you can organise a private chef to cook for you here. Instead, we went for the low fi option of nibbly bits in our pyjamas and left it until the next day to visit the hotel’s 3 AA rosette restaurant.

First, for breakfast, in the old-school dining room, with its russet carpet, original fireplace and cornices, and white-linen-clad bistro tables. There isn’t a buffet option, as this space is probably too bijoux for that. Instead, you choose two courses. Both of us had a lovely seedy granola with seasonal fruits, then he went for the full Scottish and I chose the smoked salmon on toasted brioche with chive Hollandaise.

I did wonder if anyone ever chooses the grilled kidneys and bacon option.

At dinner, they offer a five-course set tasting menu. But first. Cocktails. They have the excellent mixologist Massimo Lissi, who trotted over to ask my preferences. “Sour and gin,” I told him, and he suggested the Breakfast Martini, with marmalade, Sky Garden Gin, lemon and Cointreau. It was just right. I felt like a stocious Paddington after a few sips.

Onto food, and I’m not a huge tasting menu fan, but this was a non-stuffy and balanced iteration that flowed well. Also, we had hearty appetites after our wander round the nearby village of Portpatrick, which you can walk to, along the clifftop path, in about an hour.

The dinner highlights included a cannon of Galloway lamb, morel, hash brown and cardamom, port and soya. That sounds like a very unusual shopping list, but tasted rather special. The prune and Armagnac tart, with salted caramel, was equally gorgeous.

And, we saw Airwolf himself, who was eating dinner at the table beside us.

He was finally being left in peace, so we didn’t ask if he would give us a lift home.

Still, that could’ve been a very classy ending to a wonderful weekend.

Prices start from £1225 for a 2-night stay in high season and £875 for a 2-night stay in low season, Knockinaam Hotel and Restaurant, Portpatrick, Stranraer (01776 810471, www.knockinaamluxurylodges.com

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