I spent 24 hours at this reviving and restorative Edinburgh waterside resort

Forget worms, for early birds it’s all about catching the first breaks at inland surf resort Lost Shore in Ratho, Edinburgh. The Cove Wave Pool in the former quarry has already magically started pumping out its rhythmic adjustable waves, yet the sun has barely risen.

We can see kayakers practising on one side, and, even earlier, my other half had spotted wild swimmers taking a dip.

We are happy observers, watching from the large window in our waterside lodge, which is one of 53 options, from wee pods to hilltop retreats, at this resort.

Our wood-clad accessible cabin is all-grey and designed with post-surf practicality in mind. It has a large wetroom, with two sinks including one at wheelchair height, and the bedroom has built-in wardrobe space, plus one king sized bed and bunk beds. In the kitchen and living room, there’s an additional sofa bed, and telly, plus a coffee pod machine, kettle, dishwasher, and all the accoutrements you could need. All of the lodges have hangers for wetsuits out back, and these soggy cast-offs flap around in the breeze like selkie skins.

I am happy to be back, to see this place thriving, two years since opening. Things have changed since 2024. For example, they’ve taken their restaurant offering inhouse, headed by executive chef Jason Wright, and instead have installed Lost Food, which includes Lost Kitchen, Lost Flock (fried chicken) and Edinburgh OG pizza spot, Civerinos.

We’ll be visiting that later, but, first, we have alternative plans that do NOT include surfing.

That’s because I had a lesson at their launch, and was absolutely rubbish. I spent most of the time worrying that my contact lenses were going to get washed out of my eyes.

However, it is not obligatory to get wet here.

Our first appointment was at their Spa Studio, with Brazilian therapist Idalice, who specialises in Brazilian lymphatic massage using special bamboo tools. She’s going to give each of us a 45-minute experience, though no bamboo today. I bagged the first spot and, while she settled me into the treatment room, my husband was swaddled on a reclining chair in the relaxation area, with an eye mask and headphones playing merrily twittering birdsong.

I’m face down in the therapy room, on the comfy heated bed, as Idalice, who has 34 years’ experience, uses a sweetly-scented organic Ila oil to work on the bubble wrap-esque knots in my shoulders and trapezius, and stretches my arms, so she can get under my scapulas. My favourite bits are the calf and foot rub, the blissful neck rub, and when she uses rolling forearm moves along my back. I don’t want it to end.

Afterwards, we swap over, and I get the swaddling and hot water bottle experience.

Post-treatment, and we have a bleary-eyed stroll back to our cabin, where there are snacks. We’ve bagged a haul from Lost Food’s grocery section, including some Inessence chorizo crisps that I’m now hooked on. We try not to inhale them all, as we’ve got an early dinner booked at Lost Kitchen.

It’s Friday night, and the place is rammed, mainly with locals. I blame the fact that we’d both forgotten our reading glasses for ending up with a thin and crispy New Haven style Civerinos chicken schnitzel and hot honey pizza (£29.75), which is the diameter of a Land Rover tyre. It’s served on a stand, so we may as well have a neon sign on our table, saying “greedy piggies”. We also ordered a tangy katsu sando (£15) and popcorn buffalo cauliflower (£8) from Lost Flock. This is all filthily tasty, and when our server - the staff are SO nice here - asks if we want to take away a banoffee pie pudding (£5) to have in our lodge, it seemed rude not to.

The next day, after a semi-healthy breakfast in Lost Kitchen, we’re off to try Spear Sauna, where they’ve recently added a plunge pool, at a not too Wim Hof-esque temperature of nine degrees. We dip into the changing rooms to get into our swimmers, and end up chatting to a man who is bubbling over with excitement after a bodyboarding session here. It’s the first time in years that he’s done it, and he enjoyed experiencing the controlled waves at this destination.

Into the sauna, where there is birch water to pour on the coals. We watch the paddleboarders and those who’re taking classes with the professionals here. This batch of learners are SO impressive. If we could hold up score cards, there would be plenty of 10s.

It’s just a shame that surfing is not my forte. I am much more talented, when it comes to eating, massages and enjoying the relaxing ritual of sauna.

The spa experience for two is £130 (£65pp) . The Waterfront Kurv is available for a minimum of 2 nights, sleeps up to 4 people and prices start from £125 per night, lostshore.com

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