I had a perfect lunch at 'the world's best' cafe, and it's not in Edinburgh

This place is heavenly

Whenever I’m on holiday, I always hunt for the perfect cafe.

Hotel beds, over-enthusiastic aircon and being out of your routine mean that proper two-shot caffeine is urgent to beat the out-of-office groggy-ness. Actually, make that three shots.

The whirring Nespresso machine they’ve provided your room is totally ineffectual. It’s a bit like David, with a single coffee bean in his catapult.

Then, when it comes to food, normal rules don’t apply - school’s out! - so cakes and pastries are a must to punctuate every meal.

Anyway, I already knew exactly which cafe I’d be visiting, when I stayed in the town of Portree on the Isle of Skye. There was no hunting or Googling required.

It had to be Birch, which was recently placed at number 15 in Europe’s 100 Best Coffee Shops 2026, and, even earlier this year, was listed at number 50 in the World’s 100 Best Coffee Shops UK 2026. Those award plaques are tucked into their window, for all to see. What’s next? Number 10 in the galaxy? I wouldn’t be that surprised.

This business, which also has a branch in Inverness and its own roastery, was opened in 2020 by local Niall Munro, who was inspired by the Melbourne coffee scene.

He’s also the son of Runrig’s former lead singer, Donnie Munro. It was Pops who painted the rather nice patchworky landscape mural that’s on the wall opposite the cafe, which is on the narrow Bayfield Road, as well as a softly pastel and rather beautiful still life painting in the cafe.

We bagged a couple of lunchtime seats in this cool, white and meditative space, just before a throng of rustling waterproof-trouser-clad tourists came through the door. I love getting ahead of a big queue. I felt like the cat who’d got the (cafe) creme.

We ordered two savoury options from the brunchy menu, which featured lots of intriguing goodies, such as a caramelised white chocolate granola, stewed fruit and local yogurt; Portree microgreen Caesar salad; and scrambled eggs done three ways.

We went for one version of the scramblers (£14), with buttered leeks, asparagus nibs and cheddar, which came on a thick slice of toasted tin loaf. This was a total masterpiece. I mean, if you’re going to offer something simple, do it well, and they really had. The pillowy eggs were so expertly cheese-riddled, and topped with a flurry of chives and herby oil, with sturdy three-inch-thick toast that was resolute against any potential soggyness. Total breakfast joy. We’re going to try to recreate this at home, but I’m not sure we’re clever enough.

Our herbed yogurt (£14) was equally gorgeous, with hummus, and loads of dukkah, garlic chips, and other nibbly bits, as well as three large pads of olive oily focaccia.

This was all gussied up by some pretty pansy and borage petals. Apparently, Celtic warriors drank borage-flavoured wine to promote bravery in battle. This dish certainly gave me a bit of puffed up chutzpah. Maybe we could powerwalk up the Black Cuillin after all?

We’d also gone for a few cakes and pastries, because, holidays.

The asparagus, pesto, and whipped ricotta Danish (£4.50) was a plinth of coppery crispy pastry layers, like the strata in Torridon sandstone, with a large beanie hat of salty ricotta and a flourish of microgreens. We shared this, and burnished crumbs yeeted across the floor.

I also had a slice of banana and chocolate loaf (£3.50), which had been under the counter beside other sugary delights including a miso chocolate brownie; raspberry, elderflower and lemon Danish, and peanut butter, chocolate and sea salt cookie. They’d already sold out one batch, and replaced it with another and, apparently, this classic loaf is always their bestseller. I can see why. It was sticky and homely, as well as being mottled by a properly generous contingent of chocolate drops.

He tried the sophisticated blueberry and frangipane tart (£3.50), which was buttery, crisp and almond topped.

They’ve got lots of interesting potion-like drinks here, too, from matcha, to chai, yuzu cold brew, apple and basil iced tea, and Skye Foraged’s Meadowsweet and Mint.

And, of course, the coffee, which comes from their own roastery, is perfect. We had two flat whites (£4.20 each), served in cute little mugs that were speckled like hen’s eggs.

So strong, it sledgehammered our tiredness into oblivion.

That made this possibly my loveliest holiday cafe experience, ever.

I’m happy to award them Best in the Galaxy.

Birch, Bayfield Road, Portree, https://birch.coffee/