Sizzling Sicily and tremendous Tuscany


The variety and quality of Italian wines never ceases to amaze me, with hundreds of indigenous grape varieties and thoroughly enjoyable wines at all price levels.
The island of Sicily in the deep south of Italy, has the most amazing climate for wine grapes, with warm sunshine tempered slightly by the coastal breezes and low mountains, giving cooler micro-climates suitable for aromatic development in the grapes. There are several different winemaking techniques which have arisen in this ancient winemaking region, one of which is the ‘appassimento’ method. This method involves partial drying of the ripe grapes, either on the vine by twisting the bunches or with picked grapes dried on mats in the sun. This concentrates the flavours and eliminates some moisture prior to fermentation. Normally reserved for making some red wines, unusually the appassimento method is used by a few winemakers for whites. Nero Oro Grillo 2023 is made from grapes grown near Marsala and both drying techniques are used for a proportion of the grapes.
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Hide AdThe resultant wine has a richness and depth seldom seen in this white grape variety grown in many regions of Italy. Packed with fruit, yet with a balancing zing of acidity, there are notes of ripe cantaloupe melon and white nectarine, together with candied orange rind and sultana. Quite delicious on its own or with lightly spiced Mediterranean style dishes. £11.99 from Majestic. From the same supplier comes Nero Oro Rosso 2022 made from Nero d’Avola, the red grape most often associated with the island of Sicily. The grapes are grown around Agrigento and winemaking techniques ensure a full, richness in the wine, also due in part to the appassimento method. Intense aromas of leather, pepper and tobacco lead to a palate full of dark red fruit flavours, with morello cherries and dark plums. Also available from Majestic at £11.99. Perfect with home-made lasagne.
Further up the Italian coast, the Bolgheri region of Tuscany produces some of the best wines in the whole of the country, being home to many of the Super Tuscan reds, such as the world-renowned Sassicaia. Grattamacco is another of these fabulous quality wine producers. Making some outstanding red wines, this winery also produces an equally outstanding white. Made from Vermentino – one of my favourite grape varieties for drinking in warmer weather – the wine positively sings from the glass. Vermentino does particularly well in coastal situations and my love of the variety and association with warm weather, stems from many years of family summer holidays in Corsica, where it is widely grown. An organic wine from a tiny hillside estate near the Tuscan coast Grattamacco Vermentino has wonderful, succulent freshness, with ripe stone fruit character, together with hints of wild herbs. With depth and complexity, together with zippy acidity, this is the ultimate expression of the Vermentino grape. Perfect as an aperitif, it is also an excellent accompaniment to fish and seafood dishes. Available from specialist merchants online at around £29 per bottle.