In the Kitchen: Scott Smith from Sugar boat restaurant, Helensburgh
In a quiet corner of Colquhoun Square in Helensburgh is a local neighbourhood bistro called Sugarboat - named after a famous local landmark, the shipwrecked hulk of the MV Captayannis.
Known locally as the 'sugar boat', it was a Greek-owned ship which sank in 1974 off the Helensburgh coastline in the Firth of Clyde.
This stylish eaterie is the latest solo project for Will Smith, an experienced London restaurateur who co-owned not one, but two, Michelin starred restaurants in London; Wild Honey in Mayfair and Arbutus in Soho, which he ran with his business partner chef-patron, Anthony Demetre.
The talented pair pioneered the ‘Bistronomy’ movement in London, but two years ago he made the decision to branch out on his own and tackle a new challenge, relocating with his wife to Helensburgh.
Also returning with him to Scotland was his head chef, Scott Smith, who had previously worked with him in London. Will firmly believes that Scott has a culinary talent to watch out for.
Since opening, they have picked up a slew of accolades, and have twice been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand award; although not a star (yet), Bibs awards highlight restaurants ‘which offer good quality, good value cooking.’
They have also been named as AA’s Scottish Restaurant of the Year 2019.
• READ MORE: Scotland's Restaurant of the Year has been named at the twenty-second annual AA Hospitality Awards
Main Course
Meanwhile, Scott selects a slice of pre-cooked boulangère. This is made from alternating layers of thin-sliced potato and ox shin all held together and flavoured by thyme and butter.
It's baked and chilled and pressed overnight before being portioned for use in the kitchen the next day. It is now fried in beef dripping.
"Takes me back to my chip shop days," says Scott.
Warm the pre-made carrot puree, in a small pan. In another pan heat the beef jus, with some stock and the garlic cloves. This provides a delicious gravy.
Warm the premade Nduja, which consists of 60 per cent chilli 50 per cent cured pork and compliments meat really well with a bit of a kick. In a stainless steel bowl, add shallot and tomato to the thinly sliced crisp cabbage and mix the Nduja to coats shredded leaves.
Finally, its plated beside the pass the warmed carrot goes on the plate first with boulangère placed on its side and bavette sliced and carefully arranged.
The garlic beef jus and garlic is poured over the meat and the cabbage spice mix goes on top. Then the toasted buckwheat is scattered on the carrot puree for added texture.