In the Kitchen: Andy Keir from Damm27 restaurant, Causewayside, Edinburgh
Art of cooking?
Andy explains that he didn't go straight into catering when he finished school.
He said: “I went to Duncan of Jordanstone College of Art in Dundee, where I studied fine art painting but I only lasted a couple of years, I was too young.
Meat Course
Today Andy is showcasing his classic shin of beef bourguignon, served with pancetta, wild mushrooms and rustic bread.
"In the restaurant, we serve small plates so I'm showcasing a couple from our menu.
"I try to change things every three or four months, but both these dishes are very popular with the regulars.”
Preparation is done in advance to keep the stress levels low in the kitchen, so a large joint of shin of Scottish beef has been braised previously in red wine with root vegetables; carrots, celery and onion, with additional flavours added with garlic, thyme, a bay leaf, some peppercorns and salt.
It is slowly roasted for around three-four hours on a roasting tray- just long enough to render the fat but still maintain meat's texture. Then is left to rest in its juices in the fridge overnight until it is ready for service.
Next, Andy sautees sliced shallots and chopped garlic in a small shallow pan, before adding a scattering of wild mushrooms.
Then large chunks of pre-roasted unsmoked pancetta are placed into the pan as well as the secret ingredient - drained silverskin pickled onions.
The melt in the mouth, shin of beef is broken into mouth-sized chunks and added to the pan before being submerged in some flavoursome thickened beef stock which is poured over and then bubbles away contentedly.
The verdict is top flavoursome sensations, all executed well.
Forkfuls of melt- in -the -mouth beef shin morsels smothered in jus, with just the right amount of additional texture provided by the mushrooms and pancetta. And to my mind, the silverskin onions were the real hidden gems.
The cauliflower dish provides a lighter, healthier quick-lunch option, which compliments amazingly well with the sweet chutney and kale. The flowers look great in the photograph but I felt they were too pretty to eat.
Under the grill: Quick Q & A with Andy
Describe your cooking style? and why are you passionate about it? Traditional, French-inspired fusion etc.
"I'm very old school and like traditional French and British cuisine. As long as it’s simple but well executed. I also love Alsace regional cooking. "
What was your first job in the industry? Plus where were you before?
"My first job was as a kitchen porter in a small hotel in St Michael's in Fife, I spent most of my weekends peeling spuds and chopping carrots.
"I recently worked in Los Angeles at a French bistro, a Fifer in charge of a team of Los Angelinos could get a bit hectic sometimes during service! "
Favourite spice? And what dish/recipe would you suggest using it in?
"Smoked paprika. It's perfect for roasting or braising meat, or veg. I love to use it in a Caponata stew."
Are you sweet or sour? So is it all peace and harmony in your kitchen or do the pots and pans fly? What little things annoy you?
"Most of the time I am pretty calm, but during the busy periods, I have been known to bang a few pans or omit the odd colourful word across the pass! The joke at the weekends at Damm27 is to get a parrot to run the pass.
"I'm a fan of Alex Ferguson management style, alright he might lose the rag but he looked after the young players."
What is the flavour of the moment in your kitchen right now?
"I've got a lot of winter-style dishes on at the moment, and braised shin of beef bourguignon is very popular."
Tea or Coffee? Is it Darjeeling darling or bitter Colombian? What's your brew and how you like to drink it? Camomile, Milky brew or builders elaborate, please?
"Cappuccino. I'm a bit of a Mod! I'm still into it, I love the music, culture and clothes. I once own a Vespa for about a day before I crashed it into a wall, then it became an expensive piece of art in my living room."
Everyone has one at least one guilty food pleasure, so what do you love but are too embarrassed to admit?
"Curry pot noodle. Don’t tell anyone."
Who is your favourite chef?
"My favourite chef has to be Rick Stein, I could watch him read a phone book."
Fantasy dinner party guests? and what would you cook for them?
"Elvis Presley, Noel Gallagher, Ritchie and Eddie from Bottom, Eric Cantona and Jamie Lee Curtis. I would probably cook a roast leg of lamb, with all the usual Sunday trimmings, followed by a massive cheeseboard. "
I don't like...or I'd rather not eat......
"Heinz Salad Cream is not for me!"
