Remains of 'lost and nameless' 800-year-old castle found on Scottish island with Macdonald clan link

Finlaggan on the Isle of Islay has just got all the more fascinating.

For centuries, the remains of a mighty medieval castle on a Scottish island were lost from view.

But now, a major piece of archaeological investigation has confirmed that a previously unknown royal stronghold once stood across two islands at Loch Finlaggan on Islay.

Visualisation of the castle at Finlaggan. PIC: David Simon.placeholder image
Visualisation of the castle at Finlaggan. PIC: David Simon. | David Simon

Finlaggan served as the power centre for the mighty Lordship of the Isles, which ruled over the islands and latterly a vast sweep of the mainland from around 1300 to 1500 AD.

It was on these islands in the loch that chieftains, lords and bishops met to pass laws and govern. The inauguration of the hereditary Macdonalds, who held the Lords of the Isles title, took place here in a palace complex during the 14th and 15th centuries.

Now Dr Caldwell’s research has also illuminated what came before, with traces of an earlier royal castle, which remains nameless, dating to the 12th and 13th century now found.

Dr Caldwell, in his new book The Archaeology of Finlaggan, Islay, said it was possible the importance of the site dated back even further and served as a meeting place - or thing - during the Viking period, with traces of prehistoric life also detected.

He said: “I am privileged to have led a skilled and dedicated team of specialists and volunteers on such an important project on a key place of national significance.

“The processing of all the data that was gathered has been a major part of my life since the 1990s and I hope I have not only provided an account of interest, but also a basis for others to carry out more research in the future."

Drone photograph of Finlaggan on Islay, the powerbase for the mighty Lords of the Isles.placeholder image
Drone photograph of Finlaggan on Islay, the powerbase for the mighty Lords of the Isles. | Open Virtual Worlds

The castle is believed to have occupied two islands in Loch Finlaggan. On one stood a large stone tower, which provided living quarters and extra security for the king or lord.

On the second island, a courtyard contained kitchens, a chapel with a burial ground, houses, workshops, and a great hall where feasting took place.

The tower is estimated to have been approximately 19m by 19m overall, making it similar in size to stone keeps in England like those in the castles of Carlisle, Bamburgh and Lancaster.

As the building of large rectangular stone towers was essentially limited to great Anglo-French lords and kings in Britain and Ireland, the castle can be interpreted as a political statement, as well as a sign of the wealth and connections of the ruling class, Dr Caldwell said.

The castle may have been dismantled because it was structurally unsound or due to enemy action before the palace at Finlaggan began to take shape in the 14th century.

Dr Caldwell’s findings come after nearly three decades of analysis, with the book a comprehensive account and interpretation of the major archaeological research undertaken at the site from 1989 to 1998, including work by Time Team specialists in 1994.

He directed the project on behalf of National Museums Scotland, with the work featuring on an episode of the television programme.

The book also delves deep in the power centre of the Lordship of the Isles, which Dr Caldwell described as a “quasi-independent state of political and cultural importance” during the 14th and 15th centuries.

The lordship has its roots in Somerled, the 12th century Norse-Gaelic warlord and prince who challenged the might of both Norway and Scotland in his attempts to make the islands an entirely separate kingdom.

The first chief of Clan Donald to claim the title of Lord of the Isles was John of Islay, known as Eoin MacDomhnaill or Iain mac Aonghais MacDhòmhnaill, who lived from about 1305 to 1386.

With control of the islands off the west coast, Argyll and the vast earldom of Ross in the Highlands, the Lords of the Isles were powerful chiefs with royal pretensions who regarded themselves on par with English and Scottish kings.

They referred to themselves as 'Ri Innse Gall' (‘King of the Isles’) in Gaelic and have long been recognised by historians as an important phenomenon and a serious challenger to the Stewart dynasty for control of much of Scotland.

Accounts detail a 15th-century inauguration ceremony of John of Islay, 4th Lord of the Isles, the last chief to hold the title, who stood on a stone embedded with a footprint, clad in a white robe and holding a white rod and sword.

He was stripped of his lands and title by the Scottish Crown in 1493, ending the hereditary right to the lordship.

Archaeological data presented in Dr Caldwell’s book, published by the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, backs up historical accounts and traditions and confirms Finlaggan’s role as the ceremonial, administrative and judicial centre of a medieval kingdom.

Visualisation of later medieval Finlaggan, where the hereditary chiefs of Clan Donald were inaugurated as the Lords of the Isles in the 14th and 15th Century. PIC: David Simonplaceholder image
Visualisation of later medieval Finlaggan, where the hereditary chiefs of Clan Donald were inaugurated as the Lords of the Isles in the 14th and 15th Century. PIC: David Simon | David Simon

Evidence includes several mounts and keys that belonged to caskets, which are thought to have protected documents and other valuables, and the remains of the council house, mentioned in a 1549 account, where meetings of the Council of the Isles took place.

In addition, the book reveals the main island was accessed by boat to a jetty from which cobbled paths lead to the main buildings, including a feasting hall, chapel and private accommodation, and to a causeway leading to the council chamber on the smaller island. This would have been an ideal layout for ceremonial events.

The book also details evidence of a palatial complex with a chapel, which are only usually found at royal castles and palaces, and a large and imposing great hall.

Dr Helen Spencer, head of research at the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, said: “As a charity, part of our mission is to share knowledge of the past with everyone, which is why we are especially grateful to our thousands of fellows across the globe. Their subscription fees enable us to act as an independent academic publisher, making high-quality Scottish history and archaeology books more affordable and open access.”

Dr Caldwell will also be delivering a free public lecture on Finlaggan on Saturday, November 29 at Augustine United Church in Edinburgh. The lecture can also be viewed online.

The Archaeology of Finlaggan, Islay by Dr David Caldwell is available from the Society’s website at www.socantscot.org.

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